I have said many times to my students when they receive an assignment to set a soft deadline for completion that is at least one week in advance of the due date and another hard deadline for completion that is at least 3 days prior to the due date.  For the most part students have listened especially after I said to them that they are to consider the due date a wedding date and I am the bride who needs her gown for the wedding!  I think this really hit home with all of them, no more extensions on assignments after that. 

An assignment is just that an assignment and if it is not done on time it's not the end of the world but in the real world out there with ACTUAL deadlines one must adhere to them without fail, I consider this part of the training program to prep students for working in the field. 

So I must practice what I preach. 
This past while I have had the privilege of making some jackets for a very nice gentleman pictured in my previous post, the jacket he is wearing in the picture was one he wanted made just because with no real occasion to wear it to so I could take my time and work at it in between other things.  He picked up the jacket in the middle/end of August and ordered another for a specific occasion this coming weekend in gold and black (I will post pix after he picks up the jacket) with a funky lining.  I set myself a hard deadline of September 18, even though the occasion is on the weekend, why would I do that to myself, take away almost a week of time? To be sure that I am finished and it is perfect that's why!  In fact in my head I set a soft deadline of September 17 to be extra sure.  Well I'm happy to report the jacket was finished by the soft deadline, well ahead of the actual due date, so I can relax and wait for him to pick it up :)

I'm feeling kind of proud of the fact that I had a quick turnaround time for a men's jacket among many other things going on and still managed to get it done on time and on budget!

Soooo here are some projects I worked on this summer; this jacket was pleasure to work on, gave me back my mo-jo it was a real challenge match the print, made my brain work to create the trim on the lapels.  I had to come up with a tool to make the trim to put on the jacket!  The rivets would not go through the lapel to put directly on the jacket, so plan B it was!  I'm just glad the client (above) is very easy going and agreeable to whatever will work to complete the task. 
The shoes were the inspiration for the jacket, the colours as well as the trim were important to him, the fit and finish were important to me, as you can see the jacket fit very well. 
I forgot to take pictures (I can see Denise rolling her eyes LOL!!) of the inside with the the red piping joining the violet lining to the black facing.  The red piping is to honour the red soles on the shoes and the rivets are to match the tops of the shoes.  Whew!!!  It was a job, so rewarding in the end. 
Now I'm working on a second jacket in black and gold... keep you posted! 
Check out instagram @legrandchicitalia for more pix

 Here are a few things I did for me!  We had a wedding this summer so I thought I should make something new.  The one on the left was supposed to be for the ceremony but then was worn once already, plus the morning of the wedding the zipper slider just fell apart when I went to zip it up!!!  Thank goodness I had made the dress below right so I had something to wear!  On the left is the evening dress I made plus I altered the dress my daughter is wearing among other dresses I altered this summer. 
Along with having the grandkids up for a week at a time a couple of times I have stayed out of trouble LOL!  We also took a quick trip to Halifax, picture on the left, there are only a few weeks in the summer as it is, it's no wonder it flew by!

Can someone please take their foot off the gas pedal???  I'm not sure summer was here this year, it's all been a blur, felt like the last class in Bradford was a couple of weeks ago instead 2 months have gone by!!! 
It was great to be back in class, the ladies did not skip a beat, they got back into the bodice without a problem even did a pop quiz at the beginning of class!  To be fair because it has been such a long time since the last bodice class I sent the document by email the day before so they can prepare.  I must be getting soft in my old age LOL!!!
We started off with a flared, gored dress that looks good on every body type.  Yesterday was the drafting only, next week we will be sewing it together in a 3 hour class no less! 

Yes there is homework even after the first class :)

• Finish any unfinished work on the pattern
  
• trace the pattern pieces
• cut out a mock up complete with all the necessary markings
  
• leave the pattern pieces on the fabric bring to the next class as is to sew together and fit the body. 
  
• We will be going over how to modify the neckline on the master pattern and then on the pattern pieces.  The class will be sewing the dress as well as finishing the neckline with a facing for practice.  Please choose inexpensive fabric for this exercise. 
  

Have a great couple of weeks!

Hello all summer is officially here!  It's been a long time coming too with such a long harsh winter we had and a worse spring...  It's all good now the weather is finally cooperating. 

My summer started off with a bang!  Two of my grandkids stayed with us for 10 days right after school finished, it was a great time and they are such good little helpers too!  I never once had to tell them to clean up after themselves or to behave they listened very well to the surprise of the parents LOL! 

Our house went up for sale meaning taking pictures for the listing and open houses which means even more cleaning and staging!  I have come to the conclusion that if one wants a very clean house put it on the market, it's quite the motivator let me tell you!! 

I have been meaning to post homework for my Bradford class and this is my first opportunity.  I hope everyone enjoyed the class half as much as I did and learned as much as I did, teaching is also a great learning opportunity, the ladies continue to impress me with their stamina and joy of sewing, creating garments that fit very well and look great!  Please check out my instagram @legrandchicitalia to see pix of their work. 

But alas there will be homework because if you don't use it you will lose it...
Next semester will start in September, between now and then students are to draft at least one pattern per week of a different garment using pictures or other garments as inspiration, whether or not they do mock ups is their choice.  In September we will be building on what we have learned already I will have a syllabus ready by mid-August.  If there are any changes in email addresses please let me know. 
 
Homework for summer 2019

• Vest on page 58 & 59
• Pants skirt on page 58
• Caftan on page 80
• Tops on page 81
• Bolero in different lengths on page 83

Have a great summer, enjoy every minute of it.  I miss the class already... 
Arrivederci

Hello all so yesterday this class was treated to the dreaded front fly zipper storyboard!  It is a bit tedious to create but invaluable once it's done and you need to remember the steps!  I think the biggest stumbling block was telling the difference between the right and left hands LOL!  One student who shall remain nameless could not for the life of her understand the basic difference between how men's front fly zippers are created and how women's are created, really there is no difference except that they should be on the same side and the button down shirts are. 

You know how men's shirts button left over right and women's are right over left?  Well the pants to be properly made should follow the same rule so the eye can move without any interruption.  Take a look at your pants/jeans and see which way the zipper is installed.  I bet that 98% of women have the zipper installed in the wrong direction!  Go ahead, check it out...

In my world there has to be harmony, with the button down shirt buttoning in one direction and the pants front fly going in the other direction there is no harmony, the brain gets confused and is saying "WTF"!  Please add your comments to this post telling us how your pants button at the front and if you had ever considered there should be a difference. 

Now back to the class, the students worked very hard, I was told it was like an intense workout!  Even with this intensity we still went one hour overtime.  I could not stop 1/2 way through just because the clock said 4, that doesn't wash with me, we work until the job is done.  Great job ladies!  Only one class left and it will be a good one.  Alas there is homework, I asked the class if they knew what it meant when there is no homework one night and the groans could be heard across the street!  This class is located on a farm, imagine how far the closest neighbours are! 

Homework is to:

• Practice both the front fly zipper and pockets on some scraps, NOT in the storyboard fashion, do them in one try  as done in the last step of each
  • If you want to complete the storyboard, do one more sample as a step 7 removing the basting at the centre front – this can be a practice piece 😊
    
  • draft pants using personal measurements complete with your own personal adjustments adding the front fly and pockets. 
    
• Cut out the fabric for a real pair of pants with this pattern
  
  • Transfer all the markings, notches, clippies etc
  • Tailor tack the pressing lines on both the front and back
• using the storyboard as a guide install the pockets into the pants front, don't be afraid you can do it!
  
• we will be installing the front fly zipper in class and finishing the pants.
• Please bring fabric to cut out waist band to be added on to the pants. 
  

The important thing is not to be afraid of the garment or the technique, if there is an issue it will be addressed in the next class.  Choose fabric that has no stretch as these will be a dress pants, perhaps leave the legs a little wider, if you don’t like them, they can always be taken in.  We will be cutting out the waistband in class so bring some fabric and interfacing.  Also a button for the front, we will be doing a rolled edge for the hem. 
 

Hello all I have been a bit tardy in posting on my blog that's because I have been busy with stuff.  I have a new client who seems to have inspired me to new creative heights!  This gentleman has a creative mind and wants to dress different than the rest which is very unusual for a man.  As gutsy as men are when it comes to fashion they shy away from any changes, not sure why...  It's great to be different, my address is 1 Left Field, always zig when everyone zags!

So this gentleman wants a jacket made out of a print fabric with black lapels and a funky lining.  Check out my Instagram account @legrandchicitalia to see the picture of the fabrics.  I created a pattern and mock up for him which fit 90% perfect so I made the necessary changes to be 100% perfect (at least I hope)!  I have to do some pretty creative finishing which I will post as the work progresses on Instagram and Facebook. 

Had a great weekend this weekend, went to a bridal shower in Toronto in the evening, nice to see family that I haven't seen in a while and catch up.  With the social media it really feels like you are always in contact so it's like coming home and chatting without missing a beat.  Everyone looked great, dressed to the nines, the food was OK but the homemade treats guests brought were AMAZING!  There was a 30 foot long table full of trays of cookies, tarts, pastry of all kinds, shapes, flavours too good to describe.  Everyone got a take out container full of treats to bring home, what a treat! 

After such a great day and evening I drove home, everyone was concerned about me driving home alone from Toronto to north of Barrie on the 400, the common comment was why don't you stay over and go home tomorrow?  The drive home was fine, driving is no problem for me, I love the highway will take that over city driving any day of the week and night time driving is even better, all the nuts have gone to bed LOL!!  That was great, tunes were on, no traffic, made good time and then I walked in the front door with one load of stuff put them down and walked back to the car to get the rest of it.  On my way to the car I thought to myself "huh I could have changed my shoes".  The 5 inch heels I was wearing were getting a bit tiresome, I walked back in the door my heel caught on the weather strip and I proceeded to do a face plant on my marble floor!  Let me tell you there is no cushion whatsoever on marble, I dropped like a stone landing on my knee, shoulder, and chin!  So Sunday I did virtually nothing, resting for the week to come.  I'm fine now, my pride is fine too....  

Hello all today was such a fun class we had a lot of laughs along with doing a lot of work!  There was a TA in the class to add to the fun, Denise a graduate of the course came for a learning experience and to help me out for a bit, which was much appreciated by both the students and myself!  Today we added pockets to the pants front and then created a storyboard for the pocket installation, yes the dreaded storyboards...  that students thank me later on when they have to stop and think "how did I do this" or "where do I go from here?", believe me these and other questions will come up that are answered by simply looking at the steps in the 3D sample complete with instructions written on the fabric.  It really does make more sense to do the lesson in this manner rather than giving a demo, having the students just copy it and try to follow written instructions only, all my classes groan at creating them but in the end, just like mom I tell them it's for their own good LOL!!!

These ladies have succeeded in a getting a good fit on their pants, today we had a really good model with a few issues to fix so it was very good learning for all.  In my classes there is no judgment only support and constructive comments by all.  I will scold anyone who gets down on themselves for whatever reason, we are our own toughest critics so I try to encourage students to be a little less judgmental of themselves and allow themselves the privilege of learning without any encumbrances.  In other words, "get out of your own way and let yourself work, it's not a mistake but a learning opportunity"!  I'm happy they all have a sense of humour!

For this week there is No homework, students are encouraged to keep drafting pants and tops using different measurements.   Next class we will be doing the zippers storyboard but first we have to add the front fly to the pattern and cutting out the pieces needed to execute the task.  I will have a supply list for you for next week. 

Have a good two weeks!

So proud of this young woman!  She works so hard at her craft to perfect the work!  For her mom she did 2 mock ups for pants, didn't like the first one so she made another to show me which the first one would have been fine anyway.  Amanda understands my sometimes cryptic descriptions LOL!  That is my biggest challenge to put my thoughts into coherent sentences. 
In class we went over in detail the pants adjustments according to Rocco Aloi, an Italian tailor who wrote a book on the subject.  Basically it's all about how the fabric hangs on the body.  The drag and pull lines will tell the tale, if the lines pull up, add fabric to the waist to re-align it and let the area drop down, if there is pulling at the crotch towards the front from the back then there is not enough room for the body inside the crotch so add to the back inseam; this is called the "outlet' and there for this express purpose to pull the back back giving a larger negative space.  Sometimes there needs to be some scooping going on at the back curve and some straightening at the front curve, and I can go on and on.  Pants must be judged on a case by case basis there are no hard and fast rules on what to do because what works on one person may not necessarily work on another....  sometimes leading a tailor to drink!! 

Job well done young lady!  I even had Amanda assign her own homework this time!

Homework is to perfect the fit on both pants as we discussed in class.  This is one area that a student has to find their own way of understanding how to read the mock ups and make the necessary adjustments.  The other part is to make a pair of pants with pockets, the initial draft was very well done so continue with that using personal measurements.  Next class is when you are ready. 

Today I had the pleasure of teaching Jill some alteration techniques on a beaded dress.  It had been one year since I had seen Jill, with her now thriving business lessons had to take a back seat to actual work!  One must earn one's daily bread....
Alterations lesson, a beaded dress needed to have the neckline lowered.  This is a bit tricky to do with the beads along the neckline that need to be removed to sew and then replaced to finish the garment.   I have to laugh when I start cutting the excess off on a garment and there are others around, the first thing I hear is a gasp!  To me it's just another cut but to someone else it's a big deal, Jill was no exception!  After the initial shock she said that was the part she feared the most, cutting into the dress... 
In the end she felt really good about the alteration, the neckline needed to be lowered as it was sitting too high for the wearer.  After we took apart the bodice, cut the neckline, sewed it back together again complete with edgestitching we both agreed the neckline looked great!  We also added swimsuit elastic to it so there would be no gaping, the fabric lining is a knit so it would stretch. 
It was a lot of fun catching up with Jill and teaching her some new techniques, hope to do it again some time soon! 

I applaud Krissy for her work and effort at making pants.  They are the hardest garment to fit on the body bar none especially on a curvy body.  We will work at them until the fit is perfect, no worries if it takes a bit of time it's better learning! 

In 3 hours Krissy learned how to draft a pants back using her own measurements, then cut out the mock up and sewed it together.  We clarified a few things on the sewing machine making it easier and faster to sew things together.  Sometimes the smallest changes can make all the difference in efficiency, I hope the discoveries we made on Friday will work for Krissy.

Krissy please practice sewing focusing only on the guides; straight lines, convex and concave curves.  Draft a pants back using generic measurements to use along with the storyboard.  Draft another pair of pants using new personal measurements and then sew a mock up.  Take a picture of the front, back and side then send it to me by email.  Once the mock up fits continue with the class homework.