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Great virtual class with Kerise, we did have some technical difficulties with Skype it kept freezing but in the end we managed to get the work done!
We re-took the measurements because there seemed to be some issues with the mock-up being too tight in spots, quite the contrast to the first mock-up that was too large. So when there is a discrepancy like that always go back to the measurements and re-assess. In fact I never write down my horizontal measurements I take them with every new project. The vertical measurements don't change so I have them memorized, too bad I'm not getting any taller LOL!!! Homework is to draft and sew another mock up using the revised measurements, making the sway back adjustment as well as the adjustment at the underarm for the side seam. Hopefully we will have better luck with the technology on Monday...
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Another great class yesterday! The ladies keep stepping up to the challenge in the advanced skirts class, Book 2. They were given a choice of 4 styles of pleated skirts to choose from and create one of the styles taking into account the adjustments from the last class to have a good fit the first time. Two chose to make a pleated skirt with a yoke to the hip line and knife pleats attached to the yoke which was to be cut on the bias to avoid a lot of matching. The pleats were all hand pleated using the vertical plaid as the guide, no measuring tapes in this one! The only measurements they were allowed to use were the hip width and skirt length, the rest had to be done completely by hand. Two chose to do a skirt with 4 large box pleats matching the plaid at the seams with one feature going straight down the centre front as well as the centre back. Seems easy enough but it's not especially when the pattern piece is one width and the plaid is another! These skirts look so nice when they are done properly, very sophisticated and professional, coupled with the fabulous blazers they made in the previous semester they look polished and ready for business! Homework is to finish the skirts and they are to be brought to the next class for grading. Here is a picture of the work in progress to see the painstaking work involved in hand pleating, first pin the hip, then shape the waist in accordance with the dart depth on both the front and back, which means unpinning and re-pinning all the pleats at the waist! Then the hand basting, finally the machine stitching. All this has to be done with the hem already finished.  Kerise has been working hard, it has been a while since our last class, she has also been under the weather, hoping she feels back to 100% very soon!
A very bright student who has figured out the sway-back adjustment on her own with very limited instruction! The mock-up she created fit very well especially the back, it was smooth around the waist, there were a few issues originating from the side seams but easy enough to fix with a bit of instruction. What is a sway-back you ask? Well it's when the centre back bunches at the waist and smooths out towards the sides, the curvature of the spine is more pronounced in some people making the centre back seam appear too long. To fix this problem one must create a horizontal "dart" with the widest point at the centre, feathering it to the sides. The dart depth is determined by how much bunching there is, the more bunching, the deeper the dart. I have had to remove up to FIVE cm at the centre as an alteration on a finished dress! Thank goodness it had a seam at the waist! I had to remove the zipper, make the adjustment and then replace the zipper, it was a complicated adjustment, the wearer was so happy with the outcome. Anyway Kerise is hoping to have more classes with less time in between before the Christmas break which is just fine by me. Homework is to create a mock-up using the same pattern as before but this time with the correct seam allowances on all sides to see the difference on how the dress will fit. Next class will be on Friday November 20. Keep up the good work! I thought I would really challenge these ladies today with not one but two skirt to cut and sew in one day!
They were supposed to originally sew one asymmetrical skirt with pleats on the left side, back zipper and waistband, but last class I saw how they all finished early and said to myself "Self you have to challenge this class even more!" So I added a new project I felt the class would like to learn and perhaps keep them in class a little longer, once the asymmetrical skirt was completed they had to chalk a skirt on fabric, cut and sew it in the last hour and half of class. I thought, rubbing my hands together, they will never finish on time.... hahahahaha Guess what, not only did they finish both skirts, THEY FINISHED EARLY!!! Joke was on me! I could not be more proud of this class! Homework will be to finish any unfinished work on the skirts. Next class students will choose one skirt to work on, the class will be looking at different pleated skirt styles suitable for stripes or plaids. This assignment will be sewn in its entirety (no lining), we will be using plaid fabric.
The pants sewing course is up and running! This is the third course for beginners to learn how to draft and sew their own pants that fit! Take advantage of the opening special of 15% off the registration until November 6, 2020, go to https://le-grand-chic-italia-school-of-fashion.teachable.com/courses for more information. There are pricing plans to suit every budget! In this course students will learn so much more than just sewing a pair of pants, they will learn how to install a lapped zipper, how to slip-stich a blind hem, how to properly install a waistband plus a bonus lesson on how to install a facing instead of a wasitband if that is the preference. If you want to use a commercial pattern, that's fine too, the important thing is you will have learned many tricks of the trade that commercial patterns don't provide in their instructions. I would highly recommend drafting your own pattern but in the end it's your decision, you have to do what you are comfortable with. If you do choose to take the pattern drafting route then there is a treat for you, a discount on the tools when you register for the drafting course. This is probably the best time to challenge yourself with something new, learn a new skill that will give you a lifetime of well fitting clothes you will love to wear!  Well these ladies are speed demons when it comes to pattern drafting! I decided to challenge them and have them draft out 2 patterns instead of 1 yesterday, I gave them one hour each to draft an asymmetrical skirt with rouching on the left princess seam and one with pleats on the same side. They had to draft a new master pattern then create the pattern pieces for each skirt from that. We had a discussion on various asymmetrical styles based on the week before and they came up with 8 different styles then I did a demo and they started drafting. The long and the short of it is they were done by 3:15!!! 45 minutes ahead of schedule!!! They work so fast that I have to up my game, they are challenging me to come up with new and improved lessons.
Homework is to create two mock ups from the patterns created in class these will be fit on the body in the morning. Please choose ONE of the styles worked on in the last two classes, this is your assignment for the AM. PLUS we will be learning how to chalk a pattern on the fabric cut and sew it together also in its entirety in the afternoon. Please have enough fabric for a simple pencil skirt in a solid colour as well as a zipper and button to complete the task. This is an add-on to the syllabus to learn some short cuts in pattern making. You will be allowed to use a tracing wheel and paper to mark your fabric unless you prefer to tailor tack or the fabric is too thick for the tracing wheel to go through... I'm not so mean after all... :) Anyway great job ladies! Great start to the new semester in a brand new book!
The blazers were graded and everyone did exceptionally well, the grade was made up of 50% fit and 50% workmanship. I can tell you that everyone received the full marks for the fit, very proud of these ladies! Also the class received their certificates of completion from Italy, well deserved after 2 years of work. Congratulations!!! We started off with asymmetry in skirts, they surprised me with the speed and accuracy with which they completed the task of the first asymmetrical skirt pattern! We even finished a bit early which is unheard of in these classes, usually we run overtime... There is homework, Homework is to create a mock-up of the skirt on page 12. Be sure to have the over/under laps on the bottom part of the skirt. Because you are such great students, I asked you to think of a new asymmetrical skirt style using what you learned in class, you came up with two ideas now I would like you to come up with 2 more ideas that will be conducive to the style we learned yesterday. I hope you remember what was discussed because I do and I want to have 4 different styles next class. This is only a conceptual exercise not be drafted or sewn.... yet... You may use the designs discussed in class as well as two more new ones. So far 2020 has been a year of, shall we say uncertainty, one bright spot is Amanda on Skype always with a bright smile and a willingness to learn more stuff! For this I thank you Amanda!
We are working on the blazer, the open book exam to complete book 1, the work has already begun with the pattern draft but now the REAL bespoke work begins with hand basting the canvas to the jacket front and then everyone's favourite; the pad-stitching!! I told Amanda to find a favourite movie or three for each side, relax and enjoy the ride LOL!! Homework is to finish basting the other side of the jacket to the canvas following the work already done, adding the front stay to the canvas in the same manner as the first side. Continue with the pad-stitching on the lapels as shown in class. Do a practice piece first cut the same shape as the collar to see if there are any issues. The pad-stitching is to follow the roll line in the collar fall and horizontal on the collar stand. Install the pocket by cutting the canvas around the pocket opening for the installation, that is the only difference between the storyboard and the jacket. The next step is to hand baste together the jacket together to fit the body including one of sleeves. The next step is to add the twill tape to the centre front using a catch stitch and tacking the canvas to the pockets as well as the princess seam which will be done in class as well as a demo on how to baste the shoulder incline together, there is a specific method to do this. Finally back to school for this great group of ladies! They are starting with Book 2,
"La Modellista" or the pattern maker. This book presents students with new challenges starting with asymmetrical skirts, if anyone knows anything about asymmetry then they can understand the challenges of trying to keep everything straight! Students will be working essentially backwards when looking at the front head on, the left is the right and the right is the left! Add to that a lining and then it's backwards again making it forward, does that make any sense??? But this is what tailors and pattern makers for ladies wear are faced with on a daily basis, I guess this is why we see things a bit differently than the rest of the world LOL!! Anyway we will also be looking at pleats, some rouching in the asymmetry as well as cutting a plaid on the bias to make a whole new design. Just to keep things interesting I have added a skirt from the very old book 2 in a circular design with only one back seam! I think this group will be challenged plenty don't you? Can't wait to get started! Well I must say the mock up fit exceptionally well today!! There are a few minor adjustments that need to be done but that is to be expected when creating a blazer. This is the stage when many decisions are made regarding the width of the lapel, length of the jacket/sleeves, pocket placement etc...
Amanda did such a good job on drafting this blazer that the adjustments are minimal. Homework is to pre-shrink the fabrics and press them when dry, cut the jacket pieces out and mark them with tailor tacks using red thread on the roll line on all pieces. Sew together the front pieces only and press them ready to add the canvas next class, there will be basting! All the pattern pieces must be marked with tailor tacks for the blazer construction. We will also be covering the pad-stitching on the under collar. Be prepared for a lot of hand sewing in the very near future!!! I like to put on a movie or three while pad-stitching the lapels it becomes almost relaxing... that's my story and I'm sticking to it! |
AuthorMaria Calautti, "Jack of all trades" Archives
November 2020
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