This weekend we started the pants class with Karen and Peggy, What a great weekend we had! The ladies did a lot of work with the pants draft for the first time! Seeing pants have traditionally been a men's wear garment they have never really been modified to fit a woman's body properly so it's up to us the individual tailors to make them work. The key component to a proper fit is the crotch curve, it has to be correct or the fabric will get stuck and show pull/drag lines where it's stuck! The most confusing part of getting the correct curve is the negative space that makes up the crotch inside the pants. Key word here is NEGATIVE! Whatever you think should be done, do the opposite!!! The only way I could communicate the adjustments is to tell students to sew closer to the body or further away from the body, it's the only way it makes sense to the students so they can accurately assess a mock up.
The ladies cut the mock up at home and marked it with tailor tacks ready to put together this morning so they completed the mock ups way before noon and we got to fit the body at that time. There were a few issues with each of them which was a good thing because I could show the students how to approach a fitting and how to read the mock up along with making any adjustments on the pattern. Peggy did the one mock up and it worked quite well so she was told to draft a new pattern taking into account the findings from the mock up, which she did and then help Karen with her pattern and mock up.
Karen had a few more issues which took us a bit to figure out the 1/2 knee measurement used on the initial pattern was the wrong one, it was the generic measurement and not the personal measurement, a mistake anyone can make... so patiently went over the pattern draft and made a paper pant to fit which was a good move it showed the correct front curve which needed to be more straight, took into account those findings and did an new draft. Once that was done we did a new mock up and fit the body, well EUREKA!! The mock up fit very well!!! By that time it was almost home time just a couple of things to do and they were off with pants that fit!
All the hard work notwithstanding, alas there is homework!
Homework is to sew a new mock up using new adjusted pattern and fit the body. Double check to be sure all adjustments from the mock up have been addressed on the master pattern and the pattern pieces on the adjusted pattern.
Find a different person to draft and sew a mock up using different measurements, fit the body and make any necessary adjustments. The more you draft the better so find friends/relatives/neighbours and keep drafting and sewing once the numbers change the whole thing changes...
Prep for the zipper storyboards with the following:
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"