At long last I was able to finally focus on Andrew's suit and pin the pattern to the fabric! I have to feel the cut before I even contemplate putting scissors to fabric so today was the day!
FOUR HOURS LATER.....
Finished pinning the pattern except for the sleeve pieces they have to cut after the jacket is put together. Why you ask? Because the squares on the fabric have to match exactly to the body of the jacket that's why! So the procedure is to sew the jacket together, baste a set of sleeves on the jacket made out of another fabric in place, then using a chalk or marker or something actually draw the squares on the sleeves extending from the armhole into the sleeve. Remove the basted sleeves, take them apart and place them on the fabric matching the squares. This is the ONLY way to get them right.
So why did it take so long to pin the pattern to the fabric? Well it's the darn squares! I have some pix to show the process as well, basically the first thing is to match up the horizontal lines at the selvage by pinning right at the corner of one of the squares and making sure it comes up in the same spot on the other side. Once that side is done then we go to the folded side and do the same, seems simple enough but it's THREE metres of fabric! Next we go to the vertical lines and match them up exactly on both ends of the fabric, this is OK the ends are shorter than 3 metres.......
All this AFTER the fabric has been ironed on both sides. Once the pinning is complete guess what! It has to be ironed again! This is to be sure the fold is exactly on one of the vertical lines. Now we are ready to start pinning.
I started with the pants so I can find the centre to match the jacket, the intersecting point of the hip and pressing line is the spot I chose as the main anchor point for the pants and jacket. I placed the pants front on the fabric with the anchor point right on one of the squares, the same for the pants back. I poked a pin through this point and checked the other side to see if they were indeed lined up and to my relief they were so I proceeded with pinning the rest of the pattern piece.
By using this method it made pining the jacket a little easier, took the guess work out of it and from what I can see they will line up vertically and horizontally very well. I placed the jacket front with the centre front lines on top of each other and marked the closest vertical line found on the pants that will line up with the jacket on the front pattern piece. I drew that line from top to bottom and found the intersecting point at the hip line, when I place the front jacket piece on the fabric it was easy to see how they would line up. From the front I then marked the side piece and from the side I marked the back. It will make more sense when you see the pictures.
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"