and most of all Be Loving
Lets all remember this please the world will be a much more pleasant place to live.
|Le Grand Chic Italia School of Fashion in Canada||
I want to wish everyone a very happy and peaceful Holiday whatever it happens to be called. I believe that no matter what name is given to a Supreme Being or religious order the message that comes from them to us is the same:
and most of all Be Loving
Lets all remember this please the world will be a much more pleasant place to live.
First of all I'm sorry for the delay in posting this homework, I haven't stopped since Thursday's class with the long weekend and all....
Anyway Amanda did a lot of work on pants between drafting some new drafts and making a mock up, we even facetimed for the fitting, get this they were downtown and went into a public washroom to try on the pants!!! It was actually quite funny having to wait for the hand dryers to turn off LOL!!! Life is always interesting! Well the pants were a bit tight on the model, pants measurements should be taken a bit loose or round up the half hip measurement to a higher number if the measurements fall between the markings. This is quite normal for the very first mock up to be either tight or loose, on occasion the pants fit perfectly, in that case pour yourself a drink and celebrate!
I suggested Amanda let the pants out 1 cm at the outseam and 1 cm at the inseam which she did and the pants fit better, this time the waist was a bit large which again is an easy fix, the waist should not have been touched in this case... The other thing I noticed in the pictures were the "smile" lines at the front crotch, it was very fortuitous that the fabric had some colourful stripes making it easier to explain the adjustment! I told Amanda to let out the centre front 1 cm on each side at the waist, even though it was too large this is the procedure to fix those not so funny "smile" lines, by letting out the waist you are allowing the fabric to rise up and move towards the side seam, shifting the fabric to remove the lines. It really works! Any excess can be removed at the side seam or a small 9cm dart at the pressing line will also address the problem. We don't usually add darts to the pants front unless they are necessary and this may be one of the times it's necessary.
Amanda's drafts are so neat and precise it's very easy to understand and see what she has done from the pictures she sends me. Our classes are on Skype and the work is checked by using pictures and commenting, it seems to be working very well for us. But then again Amanda is a model student :)
Homework is to draft and sew a pair of pants for a larger size, create a mock up, fit the body and explain to me how the issues would be adjusted. It would help to have the model wearing the pants… The other part of the homework is to make the adjustments we talked about in class on the completed mock ups by letting out the centre front, I would like you to remove the excess fabric at the side seam on one side and on the other side add a dart to account for the excess to see which side looks better on the model. Great learning!
Hello all how is everyone doing? I am looking forward to springtime! Hopefully it will get here soon....
Spring is the time I start thinking of weekend retreats, this is a great way to learn a lot in a short period of time, more like boot camp than retreat LOL!! It is so much fun to work with like minded individuals and learn all about pattern making especially fitting the body. this is crucial to understand what to look for so that one knows how to make the adjustments. All this is derived from the mock up, the adjustments are then transferred to the master pattern and pattern pieces for a perfect fitting finished garment.
The class is given the choice of starting with the pants, skirts or bodice. They will start off by learning the basic block then progressing to a simple style mock up and build from there to completed garments they can wear and not only that they also learn how to think critically and get creative with the designs. Dates have not been set yet so if you are interested in learning this wonderful art of pattern drafting and/or learn to sew get some friends together and have some fun fitting each other then this is the event for you! There can be 3 to 4 people per class the cost is $980 + taxes per person for 4 weekends from 9 am to 4 pm. We will have classes once or twice a month so it will give time to put the theory into practice! Hoping to start the classes by late June or early July, this will be up to the registrants to decide.
There is a drafting kit that needs to be purchased, it includes the instruction book, 4 squares and a measuring tape. This will be the best investment ever, the drafting method is greatly simplified, all the mathematical calculations are already done on the pre-marked tools, making patterns has never been so easy or versatile!!! Imagine having the ability and freedom to make and wear any design you envision in the fabric of your choice and best of all IT FITS! Students will learn how to draft for woven fabrics or if they choose they can have the whole session on knits, both drafting and sewing.
If you think this is something that interests you please contact me anytime.
Have a great day!
Today we had a 3 hour class felt more like a 3 minute class! We started off with a Q and A session on sleeves to finish off the last class and give them more insight as to how the sleeves work in order to prepare the class for more homework to include sleeves. Remember if you don't use it, you lose it. This is not going to happen on my watch! In fact I have been saving some sleeve samples on a Pinterest board called "Class examples" check it out you might find a challenge you would like to try!
We then started on the new chapter, pants. Pants are the same basic block for women as they are for men, they are pretty easy to sew, to draft they are a little more complicated than a basic bodice but not much. There are a few more steps to the base and it's the half-hip that is used and not the half-bust so that is a bit confusing for the first draft. To help with easing the confusion I use the storyboard format using generic measurements to teach, works like a charm! The students love to hate them but can't live without them... figure that one out!
In any case by the end of the class everyone had completed the storyboard and almost everyone had completed a pants front using personal measurements. Keep up the good work! The hardest part is the fitting, the negative space inside the crotch really does a number on ones brain trying to figure out the adjustments because they are the opposite of how they should be! Really bends the mind can't wait to see the comments from this group LOL!!!
Homework is to draft a pants front using other measurements plus draft a sheath front with a set in sleeve using same measurements; drafts only. Next class we will be drafting the pants back then cut a mock up and sew it to fit the body in class so please bring your sewing machines as well as some fabric for the mock up along with the drafting tools.
I had a chuckle in class when assigning the homework, one student was about to ask if they were to draft a second draft using personal measurements but was cut off by another saying "shhh don't give her any ideas!!!" I pretended I didn't hear any of this conversation even though I love it when students assign their own homework, but after the last class I felt they needed a bit of a break with Easter coming and all... See I'm not so bad ;)
Gotta love technology! This morning started off with a video chat between a factory in Quebec who are manufacturing the garments, a store owner in Collingwood who designed the styles and me who drafted the patterns, did the mock ups and samples to send to the factory so they can see the finished product. I was given some fabric to work with that was similar to the fabric that would be used at the factory to make these garments. The actual fabric is going to be a natural fibre and the fabric provided was synthetic, so different properties altogether. The hand is completely different, the natural fibres are more soft, have more drape while the synthetic fibres tend to be more structured, hold the shape better....
The pockets are on a slant on both garments at a fairly steep angle, on the tunic I had already tapered the top of the pocket to avoid a lot of drooping evident in the mock up; the pullover being shorter with smaller pockets seemed to be fine on the mock up so it was left alone... The factory had the foresight to make a sample of each using the proper fabric and the pockets on both were drooping down more on the pullover than the tunic. I tried explaining how to fix it by email but it was hard conveying the message so I suggested a 3-way video chat which happened this morning, it took 5 minutes only to figure out the solution to the problem! Now the pockets sit properly on the garments, the store owner is happy, the factory owner is happy and I'm even happier! Plus I got to "meet" some very nice people in the process! Can't wait to see the finished products in the store and online!
The store is called "One Love" an eco-friendly store with natural fibres and MADE IN CANADA!
You go girl! Amanda has done an incredible amount of homework for last night's class! It took me TWO hours just to go over it and make some minor corrections!
She had 2 strapless dresses, one of which was an Empire cut; a coat dress with a sleeve, pants, vest, asymmetrical top and an Empire with a square neckline and armhole! Overall there were only a few adjustments on the bodice patterns, the pants were a bit more challenging as they normally are, but in a short one and a half hours we got through all these patterns plus a pants draft from "scratch", excellent work!
The draft is the easy part of pants construction, believe it or not, it's the fit that is the real work as we have seen over and over again in my classes. Ladies especially have issues with the fit, men are much easier to fit because of the lack of curves, that negative space inside the pants seems to work well for men, not so much for women.... But take heart once the correct crotch curve is discovered, usually by trial and error, the pants will be much easier to make and better to wear. It is very important to learn how to read pants mock ups and then transfer the adjustments to the actual garment and they can be a bit tricky because you are dealing with a negative space, meaning that the adjustments are usually counter-intuitive. This may make the pattern look odd but what really matters is how the pants fit the body never mind the lines on the paper they are only a means to an end.
Even the best students still get plenty of homework in my world LOL!
Homework is to draft ladies simple pants front and back then create a mock for a fit model, we will be fitting here during the next class. Also draft page 17 the pants with the front pleats, on tissue slash and spread for the front pleat, front fly, pocket pieces. I want to go over these before going forward with the other itemized pages please.
These ladies were on FIRE yesterday! What a lot of work they did with the sleeves!
This is the very first time they drafted a set-in sleeve, within the first hour and half they had their very first draft done ready to cut! We first started out with generic measurements, students were asked (told) to draft a bodice with generic measurements and one with personal measurements. The first order of business was to enlarge the armhole slightly to accommodate the sleeve plus, more importantly, extrapolate the numbers needed for the sleeve draft. Well this was done in record time! Once this was completed I did a demo of the sleeve draft and they followed suit, now all the was left was to make the necessary changes to the pattern pieces that were cut out ahead of time to expedite the work. Then came the installation....
This is usually challenging to teach because the sleeve is 4 cm larger than the armhole and needs to be eased in, meaning there cannot be any puckers once the stitching is finished. Sounds hard but in reality if the sleeve is pinned at the reference points and then hand basted into the armhole it's not hard at all. In fact I asked each student how they felt about the procedure once the sleeves were installed and their answer was unanimous "much easier than I expected".
In the afternoon the class had to do the whole thing all over again using the personal pattern and guess what they are so efficient I had an extra 45 minutes to show them how to create a bell sleeve and make a larger upper arm adjustment!!! Giving the class a little extra homework :)
Draft another pattern with bodice of your choice and simple set-in sleeve using different measurements. Finish the mock up started in class if it had not been finished and bring it back with you next class.
Try some of the variety sleeves:
*NOTE: there is a measurement chart at the front of the book on page 5 if you would like to use measurements taken from there for the homework, please write them down right on the patterns
Next class is April 11, 2019 - 1:00 to 4:00 pm we will be starting pants once the sleeves portion has been checked. You will only be needing the drafting supplies, plenty of paper for a storyboard. This bears repeating, even though we are working on pants we cannot forget about the bodice, there will be homework assigned to include tops with various sleeves. You either use or you lose it.... sorry folks but the secret to success is repetition no pun intended LOL!
Hello all I have been a busy beaver this past while! I have a brand new video up and running on youtube, "How to hem sleeves, the final cut". The title happened quite by accident, it was the final cut of the video but can be the final cut of the jacket too LOL! Love it when things like this happen :) Hope you like it!
click here to see video.
Last night I watched The Passionate Eye on CBC with particular interest, it was about the fashion industry and the voracious appetite for disposable clothing worldwide. The truth is shocking! I had read about the dyes and other chemicals that were emitted into the water supply by garment factories but had no idea the extent with which these companies are polluting the planet! It's disgusting how the people living in the area who depend on one particular river/stream/canal for their drinking/bathing/washing water are affected. They have rashes, are becoming sick with diseases that are totally preventable, there are dead animals floating in the rivers because the water they drink is so toxic making the water supply even more toxic! The water sample shown in the program is BLACK and stinks, no wonder with dead animals floating around in it! A lab found mercury, arsenic, lead among other things in the water and yet the manufacturers keep producing in the name of greed; where can the cheapest labour be found? Where can the officials be easily bribed to look the other way?
This culture will not change unless WE, the consumers fight back with our wallets and really think about where our garments come from before making the purchase. I, for one WILL NOT purchase a pair of stone-washed jeans. They are the largest polluters of fresh water in the garment industry. It's nice to have a soft pair of denim that has that worn in feeling isn't it? Well it's that feeling and all the "worn" looks with the holes that are the most washed in fresh water supplies around the world! Do you want to contribute to this? I don't.
Clothing should not be "disposable", worn once or twice and then tossed just because it's cheap and one can afford it. It should be an investment in quality that will last for years, not just buy clothes for sake of buying it or to "keep up with the Joneses"! We should all aim for quality vs quantity, buy only products that are manufactured responsibly and ask for proof of where they are made materials used etc. Companies should be mandated to disclose this information, they won't do it voluntarily so it should be a global law in my opinion.
I am trying to do my small part by training tailors who can produce quality garments that stand the test of time using discretion when choosing materials to make sure their environmental footprint is minimal or at least sustainable. I usually comment on work issues rather than get political but this is an issue that cannot be ignored, where are the lobbyists/protesters/environmentalists? Why are they not taking issue with the fact that our drinking water, a necessity of life for everyone, is dwindling? Global warming has been recognized as a threat to us why is the loss of water not?
Please purchase responsibly.
Hello all I hope you are enjoying winter so far! I just wish it would go away....
Anyway it has been a bit tough but it too shall pass. The highlight has been the students and clients I have had the pleasure of working with :)
Thursday was the second class of the semester with the Bradford students and they delivered! By the end of the class I was so elated I felt like I was walking on air! These ladies drafted a Raglan sleeve pattern in the morning, with the exception of one who unfortunately had to attend a funeral so she drafted her pattern at lunch time; cut out their fabric shortly before lunch and then completed the top with time to spare by the end of the day! One little speedy Gonzales was finished by 3 at which point she ended up helping others. Some of the students even learned how to use a cover stitch machine to finish the top! Click here to see the picture
But alas there will be homework
Next class will be focused on the set-in sleeve drafting and installation choose your fabrics accordingly for a loose top use something that drapes well for a more fitted top choose something with body the will hold the structure;
Maria Calautti, Jack of all trades!