Well it's Sunday and there is lots to do seeing I took the day off yesterday by going to the gym in the morning and going out in the afternoon. This doesn't happen often but it's one of the privileges of being one's own boss!
The beauty of tailoring is that it can be done anytime nothing will go bad it will be there waiting for when the tailor is ready to work. This really works for me because I can map out everything in my mind before going ahead with cutting or sewing especially if there is a problem to be solved. I think it through, run possible scenarios in my mind with solutions already in place which often leads me to find a more simple solution than I had originally planned :)
Today I have to finish a top for a client, alter a mock up for another client or create a second mock up to be sure when I cut into the fabric the jacket will fit perfectly and if there is any time left at the end of the day I will finish my homework assigned to the Bradford class! I think this will keep my busy for a bit this afternoon.
After all this is done then I have another cooking video to edit and post on Youtube on how to cook chicken breast so it stays moist and flavourful. This morning I'm going to try something different for lunch, a rice dish that has the same ingredients as "arancini" or rice balls that are stuffed with cheese and pasta sauce, shaped then fried; this recipe is made in a bundt pan and baked instead of fried. Keep you posted on the outcome. It's actually a practice session for next Sunday when we have our annual family ladies day get together with 30 of our most intimate family! LOL yes 30 or so... everyone brings something and we have a great day full of bonding between the generations/family members. I look forward to it every year, eventually it will be my turn to host when my name is picked out of the hat.
Well another great class! It was all sewing yesterday, when it's sewing the class feels like we get there, work 5 minutes and it's time to leave! In fact 3 hours pass in no time flat!
Students are working on finishing book one so are now building on the skills they have already learned in previous semesters, this means I get to push them a little harder :)
This week's sewing class consisted of
Homework is to
What a lot of hard work yesterday! I push these ladies to the extreme and they deliver! Yesterday we drafted a coat dress with patch pockets, front overlap, self-facing, wing collar and a specific sleeve with an inverted V design feature at the hemline! This was all in 3 hours!
We analysed the pattern extensively then proceeded to draft, in the midst of all this there was also a pop quiz on how to prepare the armhole so the numbers can be used to draft the sleeve, they aced it!!!
But there is homework
Homework is to sew together the dress only, the collar, self-facing and sleeves will be sewn in the next class to finish the mock up
have a great couple of weeks!
We had a great time sewing up a storm yesterday with the mock princess cut mock ups! In only 3 hours the class sewed together the mock up with princess seams from the armhole, no easy feat around the bustline, and fit the body. Some even made adjustments to the mock ups after the fitting!
For the most part the mock ups fit very well, there was one student who got a lesson on the importance of sewing at the actual stitching line rather than deciding to leave 1 cm seam allowance instead of 2 that was allocated, LOL, can you guess the outcome of the mock up in this case? Tell me you answer in the comments...
Another student figured out she had to take the high hip measurement as well and re-draw the hipline to reflect her findings, not at all unusual as the body changes with time, even a short time, also even though the measurements all match in the master pattern that may not necessarily mean the mock up will fit perfectly either. Remember the pattern is made on paper and the mock up is made from fabric they each have their own characteristics and may fit differently than expected. This in no way is indicative of anything that is being done incorrectly as is always the first assumption of students, it is merely indicative of the way the fabric behaves when stitched together so my advice to students is look at the garment objectively and see where and what the issues are. The last thing I want to hear from my students or anyone for that matter is "my body is weird/misshapen/add any other superlative". Your body is your body, learn to love it it's the only one you have, so dress it with comfort and put your personality into the garment's design to feel like a million bucks!
Homework is to
Have a great 2 weeks!
I have said many times to my students when they receive an assignment to set a soft deadline for completion that is at least one week in advance of the due date and another hard deadline for completion that is at least 3 days prior to the due date. For the most part students have listened especially after I said to them that they are to consider the due date a wedding date and I am the bride who needs her gown for the wedding! I think this really hit home with all of them, no more extensions on assignments after that.
An assignment is just that an assignment and if it is not done on time it's not the end of the world but in the real world out there with ACTUAL deadlines one must adhere to them without fail, I consider this part of the training program to prep students for working in the field.
So I must practice what I preach.
This past while I have had the privilege of making some jackets for a very nice gentleman pictured in my previous post, the jacket he is wearing in the picture was one he wanted made just because with no real occasion to wear it to so I could take my time and work at it in between other things. He picked up the jacket in the middle/end of August and ordered another for a specific occasion this coming weekend in gold and black (I will post pix after he picks up the jacket) with a funky lining. I set myself a hard deadline of September 18, even though the occasion is on the weekend, why would I do that to myself, take away almost a week of time? To be sure that I am finished and it is perfect that's why! In fact in my head I set a soft deadline of September 17 to be extra sure. Well I'm happy to report the jacket was finished by the soft deadline, well ahead of the actual due date, so I can relax and wait for him to pick it up :)
I'm feeling kind of proud of the fact that I had a quick turnaround time for a men's jacket among many other things going on and still managed to get it done on time and on budget!
Soooo here are some projects I worked on this summer; this jacket was pleasure to work on, gave me back my mo-jo it was a real challenge match the print, made my brain work to create the trim on the lapels. I had to come up with a tool to make the trim to put on the jacket! The rivets would not go through the lapel to put directly on the jacket, so plan B it was! I'm just glad the client (above) is very easy going and agreeable to whatever will work to complete the task.
The shoes were the inspiration for the jacket, the colours as well as the trim were important to him, the fit and finish were important to me, as you can see the jacket fit very well.
I forgot to take pictures (I can see Denise rolling her eyes LOL!!) of the inside with the the red piping joining the violet lining to the black facing. The red piping is to honour the red soles on the shoes and the rivets are to match the tops of the shoes. Whew!!! It was a job, so rewarding in the end.
Now I'm working on a second jacket in black and gold... keep you posted!
Check out instagram @legrandchicitalia for more pix
Here are a few things I did for me! We had a wedding this summer so I thought I should make something new. The one on the left was supposed to be for the ceremony but then was worn once already, plus the morning of the wedding the zipper slider just fell apart when I went to zip it up!!! Thank goodness I had made the dress below right so I had something to wear! On the left is the evening dress I made plus I altered the dress my daughter is wearing among other dresses I altered this summer.
Along with having the grandkids up for a week at a time a couple of times I have stayed out of trouble LOL! We also took a quick trip to Halifax, picture on the left, there are only a few weeks in the summer as it is, it's no wonder it flew by!
Can someone please take their foot off the gas pedal??? I'm not sure summer was here this year, it's all been a blur, felt like the last class in Bradford was a couple of weeks ago instead 2 months have gone by!!!
It was great to be back in class, the ladies did not skip a beat, they got back into the bodice without a problem even did a pop quiz at the beginning of class! To be fair because it has been such a long time since the last bodice class I sent the document by email the day before so they can prepare. I must be getting soft in my old age LOL!!!
We started off with a flared, gored dress that looks good on every body type. Yesterday was the drafting only, next week we will be sewing it together in a 3 hour class no less!
Yes there is homework even after the first class :)
Hello all summer is officially here! It's been a long time coming too with such a long harsh winter we had and a worse spring... It's all good now the weather is finally cooperating.
My summer started off with a bang! Two of my grandkids stayed with us for 10 days right after school finished, it was a great time and they are such good little helpers too! I never once had to tell them to clean up after themselves or to behave they listened very well to the surprise of the parents LOL!
Our house went up for sale meaning taking pictures for the listing and open houses which means even more cleaning and staging! I have come to the conclusion that if one wants a very clean house put it on the market, it's quite the motivator let me tell you!!
I have been meaning to post homework for my Bradford class and this is my first opportunity. I hope everyone enjoyed the class half as much as I did and learned as much as I did, teaching is also a great learning opportunity, the ladies continue to impress me with their stamina and joy of sewing, creating garments that fit very well and look great! Please check out my instagram @legrandchicitalia to see pix of their work.
But alas there will be homework because if you don't use it you will lose it...
Next semester will start in September, between now and then students are to draft at least one pattern per week of a different garment using pictures or other garments as inspiration, whether or not they do mock ups is their choice. In September we will be building on what we have learned already I will have a syllabus ready by mid-August. If there are any changes in email addresses please let me know.
Homework for summer 2019
Have a great summer, enjoy every minute of it. I miss the class already...
Hello all so yesterday this class was treated to the dreaded front fly zipper storyboard! It is a bit tedious to create but invaluable once it's done and you need to remember the steps! I think the biggest stumbling block was telling the difference between the right and left hands LOL! One student who shall remain nameless could not for the life of her understand the basic difference between how men's front fly zippers are created and how women's are created, really there is no difference except that they should be on the same side and the button down shirts are.
You know how men's shirts button left over right and women's are right over left? Well the pants to be properly made should follow the same rule so the eye can move without any interruption. Take a look at your pants/jeans and see which way the zipper is installed. I bet that 98% of women have the zipper installed in the wrong direction! Go ahead, check it out...
In my world there has to be harmony, with the button down shirt buttoning in one direction and the pants front fly going in the other direction there is no harmony, the brain gets confused and is saying "WTF"! Please add your comments to this post telling us how your pants button at the front and if you had ever considered there should be a difference.
Now back to the class, the students worked very hard, I was told it was like an intense workout! Even with this intensity we still went one hour overtime. I could not stop 1/2 way through just because the clock said 4, that doesn't wash with me, we work until the job is done. Great job ladies! Only one class left and it will be a good one. Alas there is homework, I asked the class if they knew what it meant when there is no homework one night and the groans could be heard across the street! This class is located on a farm, imagine how far the closest neighbours are!
Homework is to:
Hello all I have been a bit tardy in posting on my blog that's because I have been busy with stuff. I have a new client who seems to have inspired me to new creative heights! This gentleman has a creative mind and wants to dress different than the rest which is very unusual for a man. As gutsy as men are when it comes to fashion they shy away from any changes, not sure why... It's great to be different, my address is 1 Left Field, always zig when everyone zags!
So this gentleman wants a jacket made out of a print fabric with black lapels and a funky lining. Check out my Instagram account @legrandchicitalia to see the picture of the fabrics. I created a pattern and mock up for him which fit 90% perfect so I made the necessary changes to be 100% perfect (at least I hope)! I have to do some pretty creative finishing which I will post as the work progresses on Instagram and Facebook.
Had a great weekend this weekend, went to a bridal shower in Toronto in the evening, nice to see family that I haven't seen in a while and catch up. With the social media it really feels like you are always in contact so it's like coming home and chatting without missing a beat. Everyone looked great, dressed to the nines, the food was OK but the homemade treats guests brought were AMAZING! There was a 30 foot long table full of trays of cookies, tarts, pastry of all kinds, shapes, flavours too good to describe. Everyone got a take out container full of treats to bring home, what a treat!
After such a great day and evening I drove home, everyone was concerned about me driving home alone from Toronto to north of Barrie on the 400, the common comment was why don't you stay over and go home tomorrow? The drive home was fine, driving is no problem for me, I love the highway will take that over city driving any day of the week and night time driving is even better, all the nuts have gone to bed LOL!! That was great, tunes were on, no traffic, made good time and then I walked in the front door with one load of stuff put them down and walked back to the car to get the rest of it. On my way to the car I thought to myself "huh I could have changed my shoes". The 5 inch heels I was wearing were getting a bit tiresome, I walked back in the door my heel caught on the weather strip and I proceeded to do a face plant on my marble floor! Let me tell you there is no cushion whatsoever on marble, I dropped like a stone landing on my knee, shoulder, and chin! So Sunday I did virtually nothing, resting for the week to come. I'm fine now, my pride is fine too....
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"