Yesterday I started a new position as a pattern maker for a ladies equestrian wear company in Toronto. My first task was to tighten the two piece sleeve, sounds simple enough right? Not so much; to take in the sleeve the armhole has to be reduced as well not an easy task using finished pattern pieces complete with seam allowances....
What to do? What to do? Remember this is for industry so it has to fit perfectly complete with the proper ease.... The challenge is that industry in North America is still using inches, I use cm, speaking an entirely different language!
The first task was to find out the half bust measurement used for the bodice, there was no master pattern to analyze either I could only take their measurement chart and convert to cm. As my students know it's the half bust measurement that is used to draft the sleeve so that was a good starting point, once that was ascertained I proceeded to draft a new sleeve for them, felt that was the most time efficient way of completing the task rather than trying to adjust the existing pattern with seam allowances. While I was doing my thing the owner of the factory as well as the owner of the ladies wear company were mesmerized by the process, all they could do was watch. Good job I'm a teacher and am used to being watched while drafting or it would have been nerve wracking!
Once the pattern was completed I cut out a mock up and proceeded to sew it, nice machines! The mock up worked out well now they have to put a jacket together and fit a model to see if the finished product will be what they were looking for. I may have to tweek the pattern a bit in any case I was invited back anytime to sew on the nice machines!
Keep you posted on outcome of this job start!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"