That was intense! Everyone is working very hard at creating these men's suits, who knew there were so many components to the jacket when on the outside all one sees is the fabric! I asked the class if the level of difficulty is what they expected, some responded that it was, some are surprised by it, one smart one figured this was the last class for a reason so she is not surprised at all! What is surprising is the subtle differences in men's physique, not at all obvious like women's bodies. The biggest issue was the armhole, everyone had to enlarge it and enlarge the sleeves as well in the process. Fun times!
Below are the adjustments to the mock ups and the second fitting for the mock ups (if necessary). I tell the students not to be discouraged if the first adjustments don't quite work, it's cause and effect, sometimes a second and third mock up will have to be made in order to iron out all the bugs, so to speak...... We are working with fabrics that hang differently on bodies that stand differently, adding in ease of movement all the while fighting gravity, no small feat if you ask me!
Class synopsis:
Danielle and Judith – new jacket front was made and the following needs to be done; add to side, remove front dart, add to the centre front, take in slightly the alteration at shoulder, reverse sway back adjustment, let out at centre back between the shoulder blades, take in at waist to give a nice S curve, re-size the lapel
Pants – Judith made a new mock up and pants have been made smaller, they hang very well but have to be let out at centre back 2 cm. Crotch is too long making the rise too high. Cut down the waist and pleat the pants at the hip point to shrink the rise. Adding the waistband stabilizes the pants for a better hang
Linda and Tonia – taken in centre back on jacket, took in point C 2 cm at the front and 1.5 cm at the back. Linda drafted a new sleeve to reflect a larger armhole and to enlarge the bicep
Pants – enlarged the pleats, tapered the legs from knee down, added wedge at back to lengthen the crotch
This team is working on cutting the fabric
Amy and Meaghan – jacket fits well, needs to be taken in at point C to shrink the shoulder point, raise point C by 1 cm on front and back, enlarge the sleeve to accommodate the bicep
Pants -Taper the leg down to the hem, the rest fit very well
Denise and Kelli – jacket; shorten the dart on the front, re-do the sleeve, enlarge the armhole
Pants – enlarge the crotch on front, enlarge pleats add to hips
Below are the adjustments to the mock ups and the second fitting for the mock ups (if necessary). I tell the students not to be discouraged if the first adjustments don't quite work, it's cause and effect, sometimes a second and third mock up will have to be made in order to iron out all the bugs, so to speak...... We are working with fabrics that hang differently on bodies that stand differently, adding in ease of movement all the while fighting gravity, no small feat if you ask me!
Class synopsis:
Danielle and Judith – new jacket front was made and the following needs to be done; add to side, remove front dart, add to the centre front, take in slightly the alteration at shoulder, reverse sway back adjustment, let out at centre back between the shoulder blades, take in at waist to give a nice S curve, re-size the lapel
Pants – Judith made a new mock up and pants have been made smaller, they hang very well but have to be let out at centre back 2 cm. Crotch is too long making the rise too high. Cut down the waist and pleat the pants at the hip point to shrink the rise. Adding the waistband stabilizes the pants for a better hang
Linda and Tonia – taken in centre back on jacket, took in point C 2 cm at the front and 1.5 cm at the back. Linda drafted a new sleeve to reflect a larger armhole and to enlarge the bicep
Pants – enlarged the pleats, tapered the legs from knee down, added wedge at back to lengthen the crotch
This team is working on cutting the fabric
Amy and Meaghan – jacket fits well, needs to be taken in at point C to shrink the shoulder point, raise point C by 1 cm on front and back, enlarge the sleeve to accommodate the bicep
Pants -Taper the leg down to the hem, the rest fit very well
Denise and Kelli – jacket; shorten the dart on the front, re-do the sleeve, enlarge the armhole
Pants – enlarge the crotch on front, enlarge pleats add to hips
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