Kerise has been working hard, it has been a while since our last class, she has also been under the weather, hoping she feels back to 100% very soon!
A very bright student who has figured out the sway-back adjustment on her own with very limited instruction! The mock-up she created fit very well especially the back, it was smooth around the waist, there were a few issues originating from the side seams but easy enough to fix with a bit of instruction. What is a sway-back you ask? Well it's when the centre back bunches at the waist and smooths out towards the sides, the curvature of the spine is more pronounced in some people making the centre back seam appear too long. To fix this problem one must create a horizontal "dart" with the widest point at the centre, feathering it to the sides. The dart depth is determined by how much bunching there is, the more bunching, the deeper the dart. I have had to remove up to FIVE cm at the centre as an alteration on a finished dress! Thank goodness it had a seam at the waist! I had to remove the zipper, make the adjustment and then replace the zipper, it was a complicated adjustment, the wearer was so happy with the outcome. Anyway Kerise is hoping to have more classes with less time in between before the Christmas break which is just fine by me. Homework is to create a mock-up using the same pattern as before but this time with the correct seam allowances on all sides to see the difference on how the dress will fit. Next class will be on Friday November 20. Keep up the good work!
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AuthorMaria Calautti, "Jack of all trades" Archives
January 2021
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