We are going forward with Kerise, it has been a while since her last class, she has been a bit under the weather but much better now.
We had some challenges with technology at the beginning of the class but got it sorted out and then proceeded to have a great class on how to "read" a mock up! We discussed the "drag" and "pull" lines and what they mean. They are tell tale signs of where to make any adjustments especially around the bust area where there are always numerous issues with anyone who has a slightly larger bust line. Does this sound familiar? Well Kerise was very excited to learn some new tricks that can only be done at the drafting stage to address some of these issues. Taking into account all of these factors will sculpt the garment right to the body giving that elusive perfect fit we all strive to find.
The one thing I tell my students is they shouldn't try to draft from memory at this stage, it is too stressful and unnecessary when one is just starting out, it takes time, patience and practice to learn the steps in pattern drafting it can't be hurried no matter how badly we want to move on. Eventually the muscle memory will kick in and it will become second nature but until then, follow the book.
Homework is to take into account the adjustments discussed to make the base dart larger by taking the ½ shoulder width on the pattern BACK to see if the shoulders need to be taken in, if so mark the amount that needs to be taken in and record it. Go back to the base dart and enlarge it by the same amount, this will ensure there will be no gaping at the armholes on the front.
The next adjustment was the sway-back adjustment to remove any excess fabric that is bunching at the waist on the back. This is done by pinching out the amount on the body from the centre back to feathering it to the side seams. It will resemble an horizontal dart that will be closed and eliminated getting rid of the bunching. *** NOTE*** the back darts may need to be re-drawn to be straight and the centre back line may need to be smoothed out if the horizontal dart is too deep.
Create a new mock up for the sheath taking into account all the adjustments discussed in class to see the difference between the ‘before’ and ‘after’ mock ups.
Once this is done then go on to the princess and mock princess seams shown on pages 44-45. Create a mock up for the princess seam. Next class we will continue with these styles and be adding to them.
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"