Le Grand Chic Italia School of Fashion in Canada
  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple
  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple
Maria Calautti
Founder
Master Tailor
Pattern Maker
Alterations Specialist
Instructor
mcalautti@rogers.com

Maria's Blog

Hyacinthe homework September 26, 2018

9/27/2018

 
A big welcome back to Hyacinthe!  A former student from Georgian College who also took my front fly zippers class at the Creativ Festival in Toronto is back in training!  Yesterday we had a wonderful day of learning and discovering new things together. 
Hyacinthe is an excellent sewer but fears the pattern draft which is a mystery to me because she understands it very well and can execute patterns fairly easily.  So this was a good refresher to remind her how very easy it is to draft patterns as long as one does not overthink the process and follows the method :)

So yesterday we created a pants draft for leggings with no side seams taking into account the stretch of the fabric which meant the draft needed to be 3 sizes smaller, checked previous pattern and findings were that they are to be re-drafted using new measurements.  We also created a boyfriend shirt pattern using the man's shirt base with shaping - a dressmaker dart at the front giving the necessary shape to keep the centre front straight making the shirt hang properly.  We also took into account the half shoulder width to shrink down the dropped shoulder so it hits the right spot and the sleeve cap is the right height minimizing any pull lines due to a shallow sleeve cap. 

At home please check the fit on the pants and if the crotch is too small then add 1 – 1.5 cm to the front at inseam in this particular case.  Another alteration for finished pants when the crotch is too small is to add a 2, 3 or 4 cm gusset in the shape of a triangle to the inseam of both legs then sew up the crotch curve, you will be amazed how easy and effective this is to make it work! 

For the coat sleeve alteration my recommendation is to remove the sleeves, make a paper pattern by tracing the sleeve open with the adjustment at the sleeve cap included; on the paper make the fold to remove the excess fabric and re-cut the sleeves from the paper pattern to remove all or most of the pull lines present when fitting. 

Homework is to sew a mock up of the leggings, sew a dress/shirt using the pattern made in class with the front dressmaker dart.  Keep drafting and sewing to practice. 

Next class will be spring of 2019.


Comments are closed.

    Author

    Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"

    Archives

    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    November 2012
    October 2012
    September 2012
    August 2012
    July 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012
    April 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    January 2012
    December 2011
    November 2011
    October 2011
    September 2011
    August 2011
    July 2011
    June 2011
    May 2011
    April 2011
    March 2011
    February 2011
    January 2011
    December 2010
    November 2010
    October 2010
    September 2010

    Categories

    All

    RSS Feed

Thank you for visiting, come back soon!


Social

@legrandchicitalia
@mcalautti1
@mariacalautti

Telephone

705-487-2328

Email

mcalautti@rogers.com
  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple