Hello all and sorry for the delay in writing I have been trying to be more effecient and took pictures of the work to help you better understand what to do. I have tried to upload them directly on to my blog but was unsuccessful. Here is a link for you to open and see the pictures as well as read the instructions again:
Please finish pocket installation as shown in class.
Catch-stitch the twill tape at centre front – for shawl collars the twill tape is applied from the first button down to the hemline. It is your choice if you want to add it to the lapel as well, if you choose to do this cut the tape at the first button so you have 2 separate pieces, the collar will turn better and not pull. At any points turn the tape to leave the corner with only fabric for a sharp edge. Please note the catch stitching. *NOTE* twill tape around the collar is not a requirement for your exam.
Cut all lining pieces and bring to class – stitch the front lining pieces to facing/overcollar, mark back pieces, they will be stitched in class
Add fusible interfacing (lightweight) to overcollar and facing – you can use the same interfacing piece used for the tailor’s pride, just fold the stay out of the way as it is not necessary and it saves a little time.
Add fusible interfacing to jacket pieces at the hem allowance (include seam allowances) only BEFORE STITCHING TOGETHER as shown below (in picture)
On jacket front because the pieces are already stitched therefore cut one piece of interfacing for the whole front as shown below and include seam allowances. The interfacing will be caught in the seams for better stability.
You may create a back stay (see picture) for your jacket if you choose unless otherwise directed in class again this is not a requirement for the exam, only a personal choice. To create a back stay trace the pattern piece from the master pattern starting from point C to point B at the armhole and from the back neckline down approx. 14 cm at the centre back (unless directed differently in class). The bottom of stay will be curved slightly as shown below. Please use a lightweight, sew in interfacing not tailors’ pride as it is too heavy. If using woven interfacing pre-shrink it, non woven is fine as well.
If for some reason you can't open the link and want the pics, please email me and I will be happy to send them to you. Please bring sewing machines next week.
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"