Hello ladies and welcome to the most exciting part of pattern making, the bodice! This is the most problematic garment for women especially anyone who is not the cookie cutter "hour-glass" shape. There are many issues created by the variations of the bust volume, there are no women who are alike in this department. There can be two women with the exact same measurements who look completely different, for example one can have a B cup and one can have a DD cup. Does that impact the fit of the garment? Of course it impacts the fit, one obviously has a larger back and is wider under the arms and one carries most of the weight at the front so how can they both get a good fit on the same style garment?
That is what these students are going to be learning in the weeks to come. The solution is much more simple than one might think, however if the adjustments are not done on the paper before the fabric is cut there is no chance of the garment fitting properly when it has been sewn. So Janet and Miriam buckle up your seat belts and follow me into this wonderful world of lines and paper and fit you will not be sorry!!!
Homework is to draft skirts using method on page 36, draft 2 more bodices using different measurements, add graphics to steps showing square placement using page 38 as a guide. Make some tank tops out of a not so stretchy (LOL), stretch fabric just to practice the drafting method and to see how they fit even before we do any shaping.
See you in a couple of weeks!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"