Welcome to the most fascinating aspect of garment design, the pattern drafting! Without the pattern drafters we would all be wearing sacks for clothes, there would be no style but more importantly no fit. Some might argue there is no fit anyway so why bother? I am here to tell you there is no fit because North America lacks the proper training.
It’s the pattern makers, tailors, line sewers of the world that keep us clothed, they are the ones who are the true engineers of garment construction. What you will be learning in this program is very much engineering with the difference that our subjects are not static, they move, our products have many different characteristics that would make a civil engineer’s head spin! We have to account for shrinkage, movement, drape, hang while we take a 2 dimensional item and wrap a 3 dimensional person with curves comfortably!
Seems a bit daunting but it’s not a difficult as it seems once one understands the basic principles of fabrics, foundation materials, construction and of course the human body shapes that will vary as many times as there are people in the world. Simple right?
That is why you are here. We are starting with the foundation materials and terminology along with some basic sewing on your sewing machines plus hand sewing, a very important aspect of not only tailoring but sewing in general to achieve an impeccable fit. Most North American schools don’t teach any hand sewing because it’s not the "industry standard" but what about tailoring it's an industry especially bespoke tailoring, doesn't it count? Anyway in this class students learn ALL aspects of garment construction including hand sewing, tailor tacking, hand basting, fitting, finishing, fabric characteristics etc plus students use very few pins to sew on their machines. There is a time and a place for pins and we do use them when necessary but not for every single little bit of sewing, they take up so much time, it's faster to hand baste and less damaging to any quality fabrics that are used.
And then there is the terminology, students should know what the teacher is talking about don’t you think? Hence the terminology sheet that we will go over and learn very well. Things like warp and weft yarns, fabric width and how it impacts the amount of fabric required for the execution of a garment, nap and not the kind taken (or wish we could) in the afternoon!! All of these are very important aspects of tailoring often overlooked and chalked up to "students will learn on the job" which makes no sense at all seeing employers are not in the business of educating, the schools are in that line of work and seemed to have dropped the ball so long ago they can't find it anymore!
Welcome one and all to my program!!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"