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Maria Calautti
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Master Tailor
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mcalautti@rogers.com

Maria's Blog

Bradford class homework September 19, 2019

9/20/2019

 
We had a great time sewing up a storm yesterday with the mock princess cut mock ups!  In only 3 hours the class sewed together the mock up with princess seams from the armhole, no easy feat around the bustline, and fit the body.  Some even made adjustments to the mock ups after the fitting! 
For the most part the mock ups fit very well, there was one student who got a lesson on the importance of sewing at the actual stitching line rather than deciding to leave 1 cm seam allowance instead of 2 that was allocated, LOL, can you guess the outcome of the mock up in this case?  Tell me you answer in the comments...
Another student figured out she had to take the high hip measurement as well and re-draw the hipline to reflect her findings, not at all unusual as the body changes with time, even a short time, also even though the measurements all match in the master pattern that may not necessarily mean the mock up will fit perfectly either.  Remember the pattern is made on paper and the mock up is made from fabric they each have their own characteristics and may fit differently than expected.  This in no way is indicative of anything that is being done incorrectly as is always the first assumption of students, it is merely indicative of the way the fabric behaves when stitched together so my advice to students is look at the garment objectively and see where and what the issues are.  The last thing I want to hear from my students or anyone for that matter is "my body is weird/misshapen/add any other superlative".  Your body is your body, learn to love it it's the only one you have, so dress it with comfort and put your personality into the garment's design to feel like a million bucks!
 
Homework is to
  • finish the mock up and explain if the gores are fine as they are or if you would do anything differently. 
  • Prepare the armhole on this draft for the sleeve and draft a sleeve to fit this armhole whether or not it is to be used, drafts only are to be completed for next class to get students thinking in the direction of sleeves for the next section.
  • Create a draft with two base darts as shown on page 68/69 only with the base darts we will be filling out the rest in class if you need a reminder go to the previous page to see the way it starts out. 
  • The class has decided to try finishing the mock up on their own with neckline and armhole facings.  I gave a brief description of how the neckline facings are to be traced from the master pattern, the armhole facings are to be done in the same manner; by tracing over the armhole making a 4 cm facing. 
In the event there are people who are having problems with the finishing if there is time after class we can briefly go over the facing installation.  Remember the facings must go in AFTER the zipper is installed. 

Have a great 2 weeks!

Ann Made link
9/28/2019 02:41:20 pm

Sounds like fun work!
If I am reading it right her muslin would be too big


Comments are closed.

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  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple