Well today was a little less intense than last class! We all agreed that on a scale of 1 to 10 the intensity level last class was a 17!!!!
Today was the time to decompress and really absorb all the material covered in the last class such as the adjustments made on the draft even before any fabric was cut, how the front and back shoulder inclines are dealt with in the event there is a discrepancy between the actual measurement and the the pattern back so the phrase that was coined is this "decrease the back to equal the measurement, increase the base dart in the front to equal the back" I explained to the students that this is the cure for gaposis, a condition afflicting many women around the world for which there seemed to be no help until now, at Le Grand Chic we strive to achieve that perfect fit that is also comfortable! Basically by increasing the base dart it gives more room to accommodate the bust volume and stretches the fabric more evenly around the armhole getting rid of any gaping that may be present.
The students were surprised by a pop quiz today! I do that from time to time just to keep everything interesting and this is the best way for me to find out what the students don't know....
In any case this class is AMAZING! There was very little adjusting to do on most of the mock ups, I'm glad that there were a couple of students who had some more issues that the others which gave me something to teach otherwise I would have had to make it up as I went along. I believe all questions were answered if there are any issues still a bit foggy please write them down and ask me next class. I keep saying to ask questions don't hesitate, it's the best learning.
In any case there is homework:
Homework is to complete the princess seam draft and trace the pattern pieces complete with markings as shown in class. For the princess seam the back is the same as the sheath and front is made up of 2 separate pieces incorporating the base dart and fish eye dart right in the seam; the centre front and the side front that must be stitched together going over the apex. This is the main difference between the princess seam and the sheath bodice pattern as shown on page 44 of the instruction book. The mock princess seam is a differentiation of the princess seam shown only as one line on the master pattern, this will be discussed next class.
Once the pattern pieces are completed please continue by pinning the pattern to the fabric (again mock up fabric), add seam allowances to all the seams except for the neckline, armhole and hemline, cut out the top and mark the pattern pieces using tailor tacks where necessary. Mark the seam allowances with clippies. DO NOT REMOVE PATTERN PIECES FROM THE FABRIC BRING IT TO CLASS AS IS we will remove the pattern pieces in class and do all the sewing as well.
Next class please bring sewing machines we will be sewing the mock ups in class and fitting them on the body to see if the changes we made worked.
Great job ladies keep up the good work!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"