This is the very first time they drafted a set-in sleeve, within the first hour and half they had their very first draft done ready to cut! We first started out with generic measurements, students were asked (told) to draft a bodice with generic measurements and one with personal measurements. The first order of business was to enlarge the armhole slightly to accommodate the sleeve plus, more importantly, extrapolate the numbers needed for the sleeve draft. Well this was done in record time! Once this was completed I did a demo of the sleeve draft and they followed suit, now all the was left was to make the necessary changes to the pattern pieces that were cut out ahead of time to expedite the work. Then came the installation....
This is usually challenging to teach because the sleeve is 4 cm larger than the armhole and needs to be eased in, meaning there cannot be any puckers once the stitching is finished. Sounds hard but in reality if the sleeve is pinned at the reference points and then hand basted into the armhole it's not hard at all. In fact I asked each student how they felt about the procedure once the sleeves were installed and their answer was unanimous "much easier than I expected".
In the afternoon the class had to do the whole thing all over again using the personal pattern and guess what they are so efficient I had an extra 45 minutes to show them how to create a bell sleeve and make a larger upper arm adjustment!!! Giving the class a little extra homework :)
Draft another pattern with bodice of your choice and simple set-in sleeve using different measurements. Finish the mock up started in class if it had not been finished and bring it back with you next class.
Try some of the variety sleeves:
- on page 50, the red gathered sleeve cap AND green sleeve gathered on top and bottom and sleeve
- on page 51 short with gathers on top and bottom.
- Page 52 the bell sleeve
- Page 53 the larger upper arm adjustment
*NOTE: there is a measurement chart at the front of the book on page 5 if you would like to use measurements taken from there for the homework, please write them down right on the patterns
Next class is April 11, 2019 - 1:00 to 4:00 pm we will be starting pants once the sleeves portion has been checked. You will only be needing the drafting supplies, plenty of paper for a storyboard. This bears repeating, even though we are working on pants we cannot forget about the bodice, there will be homework assigned to include tops with various sleeves. You either use or you lose it.... sorry folks but the secret to success is repetition no pun intended LOL!