Great virtual class with Kerise, we did have some technical difficulties with Skype it kept freezing but in the end we managed to get the work done!
We re-took the measurements because there seemed to be some issues with the mock-up being too tight in spots, quite the contrast to the first mock-up that was too large. So when there is a discrepancy like that always go back to the measurements and re-assess.
In fact I never write down my horizontal measurements I take them with every new project. The vertical measurements don't change so I have them memorized, too bad I'm not getting any taller LOL!!!
Homework is to draft and sew another mock up using the revised measurements, making the sway back adjustment as well as the adjustment at the underarm for the side seam. Hopefully we will have better luck with the technology on Monday...
Another great class yesterday! The ladies keep stepping up to the challenge in the advanced skirts class, Book 2. They were given a choice of 4 styles of pleated skirts to choose from and create one of the styles taking into account the adjustments from the last class to have a good fit the first time.
Two chose to make a pleated skirt with a yoke to the hip line and knife pleats attached to the yoke which was to be cut on the bias to avoid a lot of matching. The pleats were all hand pleated using the vertical plaid as the guide, no measuring tapes in this one! The only measurements they were allowed to use were the hip width and skirt length, the rest had to be done completely by hand.
Two chose to do a skirt with 4 large box pleats matching the plaid at the seams with one feature going straight down the centre front as well as the centre back. Seems easy enough but it's not especially when the pattern piece is one width and the plaid is another!
These skirts look so nice when they are done properly, very sophisticated and professional, coupled with the fabulous blazers they made in the previous semester they look polished and ready for business!
Homework is to finish the skirts and they are to be brought to the next class for grading.
Here is a picture of the work in progress to see the painstaking work involved in hand pleating, first pin the hip, then shape the waist in accordance with the dart depth on both the front and back, which means unpinning and re-pinning all the pleats at the waist! Then the hand basting, finally the machine stitching. All this has to be done with the hem already finished.
Kerise has been working hard, it has been a while since our last class, she has also been under the weather, hoping she feels back to 100% very soon!
A very bright student who has figured out the sway-back adjustment on her own with very limited instruction! The mock-up she created fit very well especially the back, it was smooth around the waist, there were a few issues originating from the side seams but easy enough to fix with a bit of instruction. What is a sway-back you ask? Well it's when the centre back bunches at the waist and smooths out towards the sides, the curvature of the spine is more pronounced in some people making the centre back seam appear too long. To fix this problem one must create a horizontal "dart" with the widest point at the centre, feathering it to the sides. The dart depth is determined by how much bunching there is, the more bunching, the deeper the dart. I have had to remove up to FIVE cm at the centre as an alteration on a finished dress! Thank goodness it had a seam at the waist! I had to remove the zipper, make the adjustment and then replace the zipper, it was a complicated adjustment, the wearer was so happy with the outcome.
Anyway Kerise is hoping to have more classes with less time in between before the Christmas break which is just fine by me.
Homework is to create a mock-up using the same pattern as before but this time with the correct seam allowances on all sides to see the difference on how the dress will fit. Next class will be on Friday November 20.
Keep up the good work!
I thought I would really challenge these ladies today with not one but two skirt to cut and sew in one day!
They were supposed to originally sew one asymmetrical skirt with pleats on the left side, back zipper and waistband, but last class I saw how they all finished early and said to myself "Self you have to challenge this class even more!"
So I added a new project I felt the class would like to learn and perhaps keep them in class a little longer, once the asymmetrical skirt was completed they had to chalk a skirt on fabric, cut and sew it in the last hour and half of class.
I thought, rubbing my hands together, they will never finish on time.... hahahahaha
Guess what, not only did they finish both skirts, THEY FINISHED EARLY!!!
Joke was on me! I could not be more proud of this class!
Homework will be to finish any unfinished work on the skirts.
Next class students will choose one skirt to work on, the class will be looking at different pleated skirt styles suitable for stripes or plaids. This assignment will be sewn in its entirety (no lining), we will be using plaid fabric.
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"