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Maria Calautti
Founder
Master Tailor
Pattern Maker
Alterations Specialist
Instructor
mcalautti@rogers.com

Maria's Blog

Homework week 3 module 6

11/28/2012

 
Hello all and sorry for the delay in writing I have been trying to be more effecient and took pictures of the work to help you better understand what to do.  I have tried to upload them directly on to my blog but was unsuccessful.  Here is a link for you to open and see the pictures as well as read the instructions again: 

Please finish pocket installation as shown in class. 

Catch-stitch the twill tape at centre front – for shawl collars the twill tape is applied from the first button down to the hemline.  It is your choice if you want to add it to the lapel as well, if you choose to do this cut the tape at the first button so you have 2 separate pieces, the collar will turn better and not pull.  At any points turn the tape to leave the corner with only fabric for a sharp edge.  Please note the catch stitching.  *NOTE* twill tape around the collar is not a requirement for your exam. 



Cut all lining pieces and bring to class – stitch the front lining pieces to facing/overcollar, mark back pieces, they will be stitched in class

Add fusible interfacing (lightweight) to overcollar and facing – you can use the same interfacing piece used for the tailor’s pride, just fold the stay out of the way as it is not necessary and it saves a little time.

Add fusible interfacing to jacket pieces at the hem allowance (include seam allowances) only BEFORE STITCHING TOGETHER as shown below (in picture)



On jacket front because the pieces are already stitched therefore cut one piece of interfacing for the whole front as shown below and include seam allowances.  The interfacing will be caught in the seams for better stability.

      

You may create a back stay (see picture) for your jacket if you choose unless otherwise directed in class again this is not a requirement for the exam, only a personal choice.  To create a back stay trace the pattern piece from the master pattern starting from point C to point B at the armhole and from the back neckline down approx. 14 cm at the centre back (unless directed differently in class).  The bottom of stay will be curved slightly as shown below.   Please use a lightweight, sew in interfacing not tailors’ pride as it is too heavy.  If using woven interfacing pre-shrink it, non woven is fine as well.
If for some reason you can't open the link and want the pics, please email me and I will be happy to send them to you.  Please bring sewing machines next week.




Module 6 homework week 2

11/21/2012

 
Hello all sorry for the delay in writing I also have been doing my homework! 

You are to finish the padstitching on the lapel or do as much as possible.  The steps were shown in class and you were given a hand-out showing how to space the rows of stitching.  Please don't fret if the rows are not straight or if the stitches are not exactly the same, this is your first try and are commended just for trying as it is a lot of work!  I did mine last night so now I am ready to install the pockets which we will be doing next week so please bring in your sewing machine as well as a practice piece of the same fabric.  Also bring in some fusible interfacing - enough for the opening and the strips.  We will be cutting them in class I will bring in an extra iron and plan to be there early so if you have questions or unfinished stitching come in early. 

Module 1 - week 5 NO HOMEWORK!

11/15/2012

 
Well folks here is the final week coming up on Wednesday..... where did the time go?  It feels like we just started! So you know this means next week is the final exam for the skirts module.  Please study the base draft (pencil skirt),
A-line, tapered and bias skirts.  There will also be questions on the circle skirts, volant and gored skirts. After the exam we will be covering the pleated skirts as we just glossed over them briefly.  I will also give you a glimpse of the pants draft so you can get an idea of module 2 and what it will consist of.  Registration is open for January 16, 2013 start. 
Have a great week. 

Module 6 homework week 1

11/13/2012

 
Hello all and congratulations on a job well done!  I left the class feeling very, very confident you are going to have spectacular blazers! 

For your homework please have ready to pad stitch the following:

  • fabric fronts together and pressed, cut and tailor tack pieces including pocket placement and don't forget the notches
  • interfacing piece along with front stay.  LEAVE NO SEAM ALLOWANCES ON THESE PIECES. 
  • mark the stitching lines on the undercollar as well as the stay with a tracing wheel.  Also mark the centre front and button placement
  • Mark the roll line with tailor tacks in a different colour thread and use the same colour on all the pattern pieces for this marking
Next week we will be pad stitching the interfacing to the undercollar and front so be sure to have your twill tape with you as well.  This is the beginning of the tailoring process and will make all the difference on how the blazer feels and hangs.  It will sculpt to the body and will spoil you forever wanting this fit and settle for nothing less! 

Tops and dresses sewing class final challenge

11/10/2012

 
Hello all students have been given quite a challenge!  Students are to create a garment using fabrics provided by the school, this little tidbit of information was a surprise, they had no idea this was going to be part of the final exam!  Students were aware of a final exam but not aware of the fabric choice, they were under the impression they were choosing the style and fabric.  Nothing like a curve ball thrown at you is there?! 

For the rubric please click here.  
For the criteria please click here.    Students are given until December 1, 2012 to hand in final exam  for tops and dresses sewing class.  Congratulations to all for having attended the classes and all the progress shown since lasy

Module 6 week 1 - welcome!

11/9/2012

 
Hello and welcome to the final module of the program!  You all deserve kudos for making it so far in such a short period of time!  On Monday we will be in room A217 and for the rest of this module as it has the larger tables making it easier to cut and sew. 
For Monday I would like to see a mock up ready to fit on the body.  If you don't have all the pattern pieces traced don't rush to trace them, there may be additional adjustments to be made on the master pattern, you can then trace the adjusted pieces.  If you have them traced already that's even better you can make the adjustments on the pieces and start cutting!  In this module it is critcal that all the homework is done to keep the class on track. 
Please bring in your materials and checklist to be sure there is nothing missing.  No need for sewing machines this week. 
Have a good one!

Module 1 homework week 4

11/9/2012

 
Hello all sorry for the delay in writing.  Last class we wrote the test and everyone finished earlier than the alloted time, congratulations!  After the test we created a gored skirt using personal measurements, with great success I might add.  Students were asked to create a muslin of the gored skirt and please bring it into class next week.  This is a great way to check the fit of the skirt and if there are any further adjustments to be made it will be very evident on this style skirt. 
There were a couple of people missing from class, I will be available on Monday in A217 before my blazer class if there are any questions or any help required to make up the missed class.  The test can be made up on Wednesday November 14 at 6:15 before class starts. 
Have a great week!

Module 1 skirts, week 3 - homework

11/1/2012

 
Hello all the good news is this week there is no homework besides studying for your test next week.  Please know the following:
  • the base draft
    A-line skirt
    tapered skirt
    bias skirt
    sewing terminology

Familiarze yourself with the squares and their uses in reference to skirts, measurement chart references (not measurements themselves) and finally grainlines.

This is all material that has been covered in class and you know it so this test will be a walk in the park!  Please be sure to be prompt it will be 40 minutes long and then we will be going right into drafting the gored skirts.

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    Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"

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  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple