Le Grand Chic Italia School of Fashion in Canada
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  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple
Maria Calautti
Founder
Master Tailor
Pattern Maker
Alterations Specialist
Instructor
mcalautti@rogers.com

Maria's Blog

Bradford class homework October 31, 2019

10/31/2019

 
Well let me tell you this was one super FAST class! 
I always try to challenge my students and today was no exception!  The class was to draft a strapless dress so we started off by analyzing the pattern in the instruction book, seemed very clear at the time LOL!  No one had any questions, "yup I understand", "no problem", "I got this" were the responses to my query "are there any questions?"
Then I handed out blank measurement charts and had the students write their names on them, re-arranged the seating arrangement and asked them to hand their sheet to the person on their right.  They would be drafting for each other using each other's measurements, seems simple enough but when the numbers change the whole process takes on a whole new life as the class found out!  We do become quite complacent when we are not challenged to think a little harder so it's the teacher's job to do just that, challenge the students, a job I take very seriously as all my students can attest. 
Today they did not even get a demo on how to draft the strapless top!  I felt they were ready to figure it out on their own and they did very well.  By the end of the class everyone had a master pattern done complete with markings. 
A mock up will be cut and sewn at home and be brought to class for a fitting of the “models” next time.  We will also be working on the dress on page 75 next class. 
  • Trace the pattern pieces
  • Cut the mock up
  • Sew together the seams except for the centre back seam leaving it to put on for the fitting
  • No seam allowances on the neckline nor hemline
For next class wear a lightweight top to allow for easier, more accurate fitting. 
The next class is November 7, 2019 at 12:30, which is one week away instead of the usual two weeks. 
Great job ladies! 

My projects are complete!

10/24/2019

 
So the projects that I started on Sunday are complete plus a new top and pants!  The top started off as a plain asymmetrical top but I wanted to have a bit of a flare so I doctored the pattern to reflect that; kind of like a semi circle skirt with a simple top except there is no joint at the waist!  I slashed and spread the pattern without cutting through the edges.  Sneaky huh!   Once that was done I figured I should do something to the sleeves so I did a semi circle attached at the elbow, to give some more interest I added a border using the pants fabric!  I quite liked it and then did the same treatment to the neckline. 
The mock up turned out quite nice and can be used as a bathing suit cover up or a robe or over some leggings and tank top as someone pointed out to me! 
Below are some social media connections for the Le Grand Chic family of pattern makers please feel free to join in pictures and comments are always welcome! 
Like us on Facebook: 
Le Grand Chic Italia School of Fashion in Canada
Join the group Pattern Makers of Canada
Instagram @legrandchicitalia

Happy Sunday!

10/20/2019

 
Well it's Sunday and there is lots to do seeing I took the day off yesterday by going to the gym in the morning and going out in the afternoon.  This doesn't happen often but it's one of the privileges of being one's own boss! 
The beauty of tailoring is that it can be done anytime nothing will go bad it will be there waiting for when the tailor is ready to work.  This really works for me because I can map out everything in my mind before going ahead with cutting or sewing especially if there is a problem to be solved.  I think it through, run possible scenarios in my mind with solutions already in place which often leads me to find a more simple solution than I had originally planned :) 
Today I have to finish a top for a client, alter a mock up for another client or create a second mock up to be sure when I cut into the fabric the jacket will fit perfectly and if there is any time left at the end of the day I will finish my homework assigned to the Bradford class!  I think this will keep my busy for a bit this afternoon. 
After all this is done then I have another cooking video to edit and post on Youtube on how to cook chicken breast  so it stays moist and flavourful.  This morning I'm going to try something different for lunch, a rice dish that has the same ingredients as "arancini" or rice balls that are stuffed with cheese and pasta sauce, shaped then fried; this recipe is made in a bundt pan and baked instead of fried.  Keep you posted on the outcome.  It's actually a practice session for next Sunday when we have our annual family ladies day get together with 30 of our most intimate family!  LOL yes 30 or so...  everyone brings something and we have a great day full of bonding between the generations/family members.  I look forward to it every year, eventually it will be my turn to host when my name is picked out of the hat. 
Talk soon

Bradford Class homework October 17, 2019

10/18/2019

 
Well another great class!  It was all sewing yesterday, when it's sewing the class feels like we get there, work 5 minutes and it's time to leave!  In fact 3 hours pass in no time flat! 
Students are working on finishing book one so are now building on the skills they have already learned in previous semesters, this means I get to push them a little harder :)
This week's sewing class consisted of
  1. sewing a sleeve with an inverted V at the hem finished from the inside,
  2. installing the sleeves on the garment
  3. creating a collar
  4. installing the collar on the neckline
  5. finishing the neckline with a self-facing
  6. learning how to finish a patch pocket to be added at home
Absolutely not for the faint of heart!  So homework is going to be easy this week:

Homework is to
  • finish any unfinished work,
  • look at the strapless top and identify the differences seen between a strapless and regular top. 
  • Itemize the findings and bring it to next class. 
Have a great two weeks!

Bradford class homework October 3, 2019

10/4/2019

 
What a lot of hard work yesterday!  I push these ladies to the extreme and they deliver!  Yesterday we drafted a coat dress with patch pockets, front overlap, self-facing, wing collar and a specific sleeve with an inverted V design feature at the hemline!  This was all in 3 hours! 
We analysed the pattern extensively then proceeded to draft, in the midst of all this there was also a pop quiz on how to prepare the armhole so the numbers can be used to draft the sleeve, they aced it!!! 
But there is homework

Homework is to sew together the dress only, the collar, self-facing and sleeves will be sewn in the next class to finish the mock up
  • Cut out mock up, mark pocket placement with tailor tacks
  • Transfer all pertinent markings using notches as well as clippies to mark seam allowances
  • Cut back on the fold as there is no centre back seam on this garment
  • Cut out collar on the fold as well as an ultra lightweight fusible interfacing (tricot will work well)
  • Sew the yoke to the front as discussed in class by creating pleats where the remainder of the base darts are and joining them to the yoke
  • Once that is done proceed to sew together the side and shoulder seams
We will be adding the pockets, collar, finishing the sleeves and the self-facing in class.  I hope we will have time to add the buttonholes as well.  Please bring buttons and sewing machines next class. 
have a great couple of weeks!

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    Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"

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Email

mcalautti@rogers.com
  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple