So this young woman is very determined to draft patterns at a record speed! She has learned much on her own with only some instruction via Skype and doing a great job I might add!
On Sunday we covered a lot of ground in one hour, we went over the armhole adjustment to get the measurements for the sleeve draft; went over the grading for the multi-size patterns, central vs lateral grading – central grading is increased/decreased by .5 cm on each side meaning if there are any darts they don’t move, whereas the lateral grading is increased/decreased by 1 cm on the side seam only, meaning the dart must also move by the same amount.
We also discussed a dress she is making with a French dart and front slit with no seam at the front in velvet. A French dart is curved and has the fullness from the base and fish eye darts transferred to it so it will shape with minimal seams. The dart will have to be cut away to decrease any bulk and for it to sit properly on the body. I have used it many times and it works beautifully!
Amanda said she is fascinated by bespoke tailoring and now wants to continue with her studies to get to the point of receiving her diploma from Italy for tailor!
I have worked out a plan for her to complete book 1 with minimal instruction, she is more than capable to execute the task as she has proven.
Homework to be completed before the next class is to draft the patterns on pages 60 – 67 and then book a class. Do a mock up of the velvet dress with the French dart, complete a sleeve for mom’s dress and stitch it on the mock up to see how well the sleeve fits on the newly adjusted armhole.
Keep up the good work!
Well today was a little less intense than last class! We all agreed that on a scale of 1 to 10 the intensity level last class was a 17!!!!
Today was the time to decompress and really absorb all the material covered in the last class such as the adjustments made on the draft even before any fabric was cut, how the front and back shoulder inclines are dealt with in the event there is a discrepancy between the actual measurement and the the pattern back so the phrase that was coined is this "decrease the back to equal the measurement, increase the base dart in the front to equal the back" I explained to the students that this is the cure for gaposis, a condition afflicting many women around the world for which there seemed to be no help until now, at Le Grand Chic we strive to achieve that perfect fit that is also comfortable! Basically by increasing the base dart it gives more room to accommodate the bust volume and stretches the fabric more evenly around the armhole getting rid of any gaping that may be present.
The students were surprised by a pop quiz today! I do that from time to time just to keep everything interesting and this is the best way for me to find out what the students don't know....
In any case this class is AMAZING! There was very little adjusting to do on most of the mock ups, I'm glad that there were a couple of students who had some more issues that the others which gave me something to teach otherwise I would have had to make it up as I went along. I believe all questions were answered if there are any issues still a bit foggy please write them down and ask me next class. I keep saying to ask questions don't hesitate, it's the best learning.
In any case there is homework:
Homework is to complete the princess seam draft and trace the pattern pieces complete with markings as shown in class. For the princess seam the back is the same as the sheath and front is made up of 2 separate pieces incorporating the base dart and fish eye dart right in the seam; the centre front and the side front that must be stitched together going over the apex. This is the main difference between the princess seam and the sheath bodice pattern as shown on page 44 of the instruction book. The mock princess seam is a differentiation of the princess seam shown only as one line on the master pattern, this will be discussed next class.
Once the pattern pieces are completed please continue by pinning the pattern to the fabric (again mock up fabric), add seam allowances to all the seams except for the neckline, armhole and hemline, cut out the top and mark the pattern pieces using tailor tacks where necessary. Mark the seam allowances with clippies. DO NOT REMOVE PATTERN PIECES FROM THE FABRIC BRING IT TO CLASS AS IS we will remove the pattern pieces in class and do all the sewing as well.
Next class please bring sewing machines we will be sewing the mock ups in class and fitting them on the body to see if the changes we made worked.
Great job ladies keep up the good work!
Hello all I have been without a computer for the past week which is a lifetime these days :(
Plus my husband has had cataract surgery so he needed some TLC, now I finally have my laptop back, thank God! That's why I haven't been posting anything, it's not the same on a phone...
I am looking forward to the class in Bradford tomorrow! We are going to analyze the mock ups, this class is always interesting but nothing I can really plan for because I really don't know the issues that will arise which makes it even more interesting for me LOL! I have be quick on my feet to answer all the questions that are asked and find solutions to all the problems.
This weekend I am getting together with my graduates to catch up and see everyone, there will be food, most likely some wine too! Guaranteed to have a good time looking forward to it.
Whew!!!! What a class! If we were to measure the intensity on a scale of 1 to 10 this class would rate a 15! The students worked very hard finalizing their pattern pieces then pinning, cutting, marking, sewing the mock up! The class ended up going 2 hours overtime to complete the tasks, they knew this ahead of time to prepare and put life on hold! I have to say that these ladies really have stepped up to plate and are doing the work, real troopers. This program is, after all at the university level so that means work plus it's great conditioning for post grad or real life. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
Homework will be:
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"