Yesterday I started a new position as a pattern maker for a ladies equestrian wear company in Toronto. My first task was to tighten the two piece sleeve, sounds simple enough right? Not so much; to take in the sleeve the armhole has to be reduced as well not an easy task using finished pattern pieces complete with seam allowances....
What to do? What to do? Remember this is for industry so it has to fit perfectly complete with the proper ease.... The challenge is that industry in North America is still using inches, I use cm, speaking an entirely different language!
The first task was to find out the half bust measurement used for the bodice, there was no master pattern to analyze either I could only take their measurement chart and convert to cm. As my students know it's the half bust measurement that is used to draft the sleeve so that was a good starting point, once that was ascertained I proceeded to draft a new sleeve for them, felt that was the most time efficient way of completing the task rather than trying to adjust the existing pattern with seam allowances. While I was doing my thing the owner of the factory as well as the owner of the ladies wear company were mesmerized by the process, all they could do was watch. Good job I'm a teacher and am used to being watched while drafting or it would have been nerve wracking!
Once the pattern was completed I cut out a mock up and proceeded to sew it, nice machines! The mock up worked out well now they have to put a jacket together and fit a model to see if the finished product will be what they were looking for. I may have to tweek the pattern a bit in any case I was invited back anytime to sew on the nice machines!
Keep you posted on outcome of this job start!
Great discussion on Thursday re: definition of a simple jacket, some eyes were opened by this topic. At this point your version of a simple jacket is one the for the average student is tailored and complicated. The knowledge you have acquired over the past 5 years has put you ahead of the pack as far as garment construction is concerned, like I said in class I could give you a picture and tell you to copy even a complicated garment and you are ALL able to execute the task without breaking a sweat! The best part is the garment will fit the wearer impeccably no matter the size or shape they are. In this class there is such a quiet confidence that is like a big flashing light that says "I really know what I'm talking about" no wonder some have found employment while others have thriving businesses even BEFORE you have finished the program! Words cannot describe how incredibly proud I am of each and every one of you.
You still get homework :)
This week you are to finish the master pattern on page 80 and trace the pattern pieces for the three jackets. Remember our discussion on common denominators/pieces to simplify the task. I am not giving details you should know exactly what I'm talking about. Remember for this task it is the notched collar that you are doing as shown in class. We will be drafting the two piece sleeve in class, I will be showing you how to compare the sleeve to the armhole circumference before the sleeve is finished.
Have a great week don't forget to watch Daytime tv on cable 10, the show airs at 11:00 am, 4:00 and 11:00 pm.
The senior along with some beginners will be putting on a fashion show at Georgian College in the dining room featuring creations specially made for this show. If you are interested in attending the show there are still tickets available http://www.freewebstore.org/Kinette-Club-of-Barrie/
Proceeds go to Christmas cheer, Senior wish and the CF society.
Hello ladies I don't know about you but last night seemed to go by too fast!
Last night you experienced your first fittings and what an eye opener it was! Some of you completed the task of fitting a mock up some did not, so for next week I would like you to create a master pattern for a sheath top to the hip only. If you were not present and are able to put together a classic princess cut dress please do so and bring it to class next week.
If you can figure out how to implement the adjustments pencil them in to the master pattern so I can check them, the pattern pieces will be traced in class. We will be cutting some more muslin (broadcloth) to fit the sheath on the body. We will also be studying for the test as I have put it off for a couple of weeks and can put it off no longer as there are only 3 classes left to the end of the course and the final exam.
Have a great week!
Hello ladies it was a long 2 weeks but you did very well, please stop overthinking the method, your first instinct is usually right, it's when you start second guessing yourself you run into trouble.
Have a great week!
Hello all it was another great year at the Creativ Festival! I had some great students from all over the place in my classes, it always amazes me how far people will travel to learn some new sewing techniques and see new and different items. This year the festival took place in the north building and I have to say it was really nice to see daylight and be able to to walk outside without going up and down a bunch of elevators!
The one thing that seemed to be most talked about in the different classes no matter the subject was fitting the body, I had many great questions in the fit seminar and it carried over to my other classes in fact in one class I had time to do a demo using one student's measurements and body issues to show how the flat pattern drafting method is really the BEST way to fit the body. This student has been traveling far and wide to find a pattern that fits, she carries her weight at the bust volume in such a way that for the garment to fit the front it is too large at the back. I took 1/2 hour at the end of the class to show how this is solved, any easy trick that is taught early in the tailor's training, the end result was an eye opener for all in the class! I tissue fit her to show that her body is not irregular or misshaped, it's her body and is easy to fit, the tissue fit perfectly to the point that it brought her to tears. I gave her the pattern and asked for pictures when she makes a garment, I was promised a whole fashion show! If she agrees I will post the pics on my site so you can see what I'm talking about.
Another happy camper was someone in my pants class this is what she had to say:
"Your pants class alone was worth the price of admission." and continued "Do you know what it's like to finally have a pair of pants that fit? Have a pattern that I can use to make multiple pairs of pants that are comfortable? There are no words to describe it"
To these ladies and all the students in my classes I say thank you it was and continues to be my pleasure and privilege to share my knowledge with you, keep those questions coming :)
Happy Thanksgiving to all my students and their families! Happy Thanksgiving to all who read my blog and their families!
May you all be blessed with good health and happiness and have a joyous day together full of laughter and making wonderful memories for future generations to pass on to their children.
I am spending Thanksgiving with the family at our son's home and staying the week for the Festival that starts on Tuesday, my first class is the Marfy pants class and I have a little surprise for the students ;)
Hello ladies so no class next week it's festival time! The following week is the fashion show in Collingwood here are the details: 9 (possibly 10) models and the 30 min. time frame. There will be a table for information.
We have live music (piano & bass) – if you have a couple of requests let me know and I’ll pass it along to our performers, and they play background music.
Our address is The Great Northern Exhibition, 2220 Fairgrounds Road North, Stayner, ON. The phone number of the office is 705-444-0308. If your family members would like to purchase tickets please call this number.
November 7, 2015 is the Cocktails and Gowns fashion show at the Georgian dining room complete with dinner and show, silent auction etc. It will be held in conjunction with Christmas Cheer and the CF foundation so tickets will sell fast! Here’s the website to purchase tickets: http://www.freewebstore.org/Kinette-Club-of-Barrie/
in the event family and friends want to see what this talented group of ladies are up to!
So this brings me to homework, last night we did a pattern for the tuxedo jacket and a shirt with the same collar using a different method to draft it. Very exciting you got to use some parts of the red square that so far have been unexplored! You are to trace the pattern pieces for the jacket and shirt and create a mock up of the jacket only. I don't need the mock up to be faced or hemmed only the jacket to see the fit. This is one of the choices for the final graded garment.
Have a great couple of weeks I only hope I survive the festival with all the classes and this year for the first time a booth and no team competing in Project Catwalk!
Hello all put your through your paces last night didn't I?! You rose to the challenge and completed the tasks, great job!
NO CLASS ON OCTOBER 13
I am at the Creativ Festival in Toronto teaching and causing trouble there for the week :)
So you have two weeks to work on your homework which is to use pages 44 and 45 as a guide and:
Hello all the question I get asked more often than any other is in regards to employment after the program is complete. Well I can tell you the sky is the limit!
One of my senior students who has not even completed the program yet opened a studio in May of this year has already had to hire staff to help her she has become so busy. This is only 4 months into the business!
Another 2 students found employment at a local dry cleaners doing alterations, one is pretty much full time while the other works only the hours that her life permits. Yet another student opened her studio and had to leave the program due to the business she could not take time from her work to attend classes.
As for myself, I was recently hired by an international company who manufacture ladies equestrian wear to re-vamp their existing patterns and create new ones for them. Here is a quote from the owner "Do you know how hard it is to find someone who does what you do?" He has been searching for someone to draft patterns for a long time and finally found me! This one statement validated the whole process that I started 8 years ago of a fashion design program that focuses only on pattern drafting and garment construction.
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"