Isabella is back! After a long hiatus this young lady is back to complete book 1! The last project Isabella was to complete was a shirt complete with a bias cut yoke, collar, sleeves, buttons and buttonholes. Well she wore it to class and it fit almost perfectly, there was a minor issue around the back armhole which she could not possibly see on herself so I showed her the issue and how to fix the issue. All in all if I were grading this garment I would give her an A-
In class we covered a couple of different ways of drafting a simple knit top as a pre-cursor to the Dolman and then Raglan sleeve which she understood perfectly as far as the draft is concerned now comes the sewing part..... Isabella was given a choice of garment that she wants to complete as an assignment and we went through the remaining lessons to complete the book for either a certificate or if she wants to continue into book 2 for the tailor diploma. This is something that only she along with her parents can decide, I will go in whichever direction they choose.
In the meantime, homework is to draft top on page 81 with bell sleeves and boat neck, trace pattern pieces, trace the pattern pieces for bolero, choose one of the tops as an assignment, figure out how to finish top, draft the pattern go as far as possible on your own. Next class either Friday September 29 or first week of October except Tuesday. Please let me know which one works best for you.
What a great class on Thursday! It seems there is no place I would rather be than in front of a class or screen teaching pattern making!
Janet is a fine student who catches on very quickly to the pattern draft, on Thursday we covered the man's shirt draft it was only a one hour class but jam packed with information! We discussed the yoke both front and back, pocket placement, how to fix the neckline to make it more rounded, the one piece collar using the red square making the collar fall and stand in one move, Janet could not believe how easy the cuffs were using the red square and finally the sleeves complete with the pleats and placket for the cuff opening.
I so enjoy talking to my students all the time we almost always end up going overtime with the classes but that's fine by me I like to socialize too!
Homework is to draft a man’s shirt using actual measurements, when ready to sew the shirt let me know that will be the next class how to construct the shirt in a professional manner it will likely take 2 hours to do the sewing. I will have a shirt ready to demo how to finish the yoke and sleeves. Next class in two weeks, the shirt is to be made for a male model, one can always expand into women’s wear once the initial shirt has been made.
Have a great couple of weeks!
So I have been sewing a bit, made a pair of pants yesterday for myself wanted to make a wool pair because I had a remnant of Italian wool, great idea right? Well it turns out that I must have cut out a waistband from the selvage, no big deal right, well it turned out to be a big deal even if I cut out the back crotch to make a gusset it still was not enough fabric!! :(
Well I finished the mock up pair and got all excited for a new top so I asked my neighbour if she wanted to go shopping for a top, the sales are all going on so I felt I might get a bargain..... Off we go to the mall and hit some stores, the first thing I tried on was a "twin set" that looked stunning in the window on the mannequin! It was bit expensive but I tried it on anyway, the top underneath must have been made with a body builder in mind the armholes were so large it was ridiculous! The collar was sewn along with the shoulder seam so when it turned the seam was visible instead of a nice clean finish that should have been done, for $110 I left it in the store after I explained to the person why.
On to the next store there were a few nice things a couple that I actually liked, one was a tank top with an asymmetrical chiffon overlay that was quite lovely but still more $$ than it was worth, the second top suffered from gaposis at the armhole, it could be taken up at the shoulders but then would create unwanted lines going from the bust to the armhole.
Moving on to store #3 CRAP is all I can say about that one!
Store #4 had only very small sizes left and nothing that really caught my eye.
Store #5 had a couple of things that I sort of liked but one was a XXXL and one was XS so they were both out.
Store #6 had some nice tops so I tried a few on, well what an experience that was! The L was very clingy, the XL was so frumpy it was hideous! There was one that was made out of fabric that was quite lovely, very understated and elegant so I got excited to try it on, the excitement was short lived, I'm not sure who thought it would be a good idea to make a top with fabric that has 0 stretch with no darts!!! Can you imagine what that looks like? A straight up and down top with no shaping of a full figured woman? How on earth is that going to work? The side seams were pulling froward, the bust was flattened and the pull lines were awful!
Suffice it to say I remembered why I don't go shopping!!!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"