I have come to a decision that I need to expand my horizons therefore I will be starting classes in the GTA in the new year, found a location now I need to figure out a schedule and cost it out.
I have been contacted by students from Colleges in Toronto asking if I would consider having classes in the area so they can augment their studies, I felt it was worth pursuing and started looking for a space to rent and found it in the Fortino's community room, which Fortino's is yet to be determined but at least it's a starting point....
If anyone is interested in taking the courses please get your name on the list by filling out the contact page, there will be only 10 spots open Contact us
It has been a busy couple of days I have been drafting a man's suit and yesterday I put together the mock up. The only fabric of which there was enough for a suit happened to be a dusty rose bridal satin so that's what I used LOL! When the gentleman sees it I think he will be, shall we say a bit taken aback or surprised! It really does look great and should fit well if all goes according to plan... It takes a real man to try on a dusty rose suit don't you think?
The jacket is a standard tailored blazer with the slim lapel, notched collar, a breast pocket and two welt pocket on the body, inside there will be a hidden breast pocket and it will have 2 side back vents. The pants are a slim fit with diagonal cut pockets at the front and 2 back welt pockets, pretty standard. I look forward to the fitting and then completing the suit, don't get to work on men's wear very often so this is a good refresher for teaching the men's wear section of the program.
If I'm allowed to post a picture of the fitting I will, he is coming this weekend, here's hoping!
Well there isn't much homework this week and no class next week in anticipation of the upcoming intensive program.
I'm sure Nita has already finished the homework assignment as I am late in posting it......
Anyway here goes:
Homework is to draft sleeve on page 52 with pleats in two different sizes. Draft dress/top on page 47 for knit fabrics, show master pattern that is colour coded and trace pattern pieces that are labeled and marked accordingly
Kudos Andrew! Job well done on the jeans! I usually allow two days for jean construction, Andrew did them in one!
Yes folks a pair of jeans in a five hour class! It was great all I had to do was say "put in the pockets" and in a short time there were pockets. Then I said 'put in the zipper' and a short time later we had a front fly zipper!
Andrew understood the difference between pants and jeans construction is only the top-stitching, everything else is pretty much the same, of course the fit and fabric are different but Andrew nailed the fit on the first try! He is a natural born tailor.
For homework all you have left to do is the hem, piece of cake, look at my tutorial on youtube and it will be easy to do.
To get ready for the drafting exam try drafting a few pants drafts without the book using different measurements then check to see what if anything needs work. We will get together in October, date to be determined for the drafting exam at which time the sewing exam will be assigned and must be completed within two weeks. I sent a rubric to better acquaint you with the marking criteria, I will need to see the pants on for the fit and then inside out for the finish. Creativity is a small portion of the marking but is a factor in the end result.
What a trooper this fine lady got up early on her day off to log on at 7:00 am for her class, she knew the rest of the day would have been too busy and she would have to miss the class, there would be none of that we did the class at 7:00 am Pacific time! That's dedication! Kudos my dear.
We are doing sleeves now so students can make some winter clothes, the thing about sleeves is the measurements are all derived from the armhole in some cases the armhole measurement is smaller than the initial pattern so it must be made smaller. This will result in a sleeve draft that can be 2 to 3 sizes smaller than the 1/2 bust measurement taken on the body. This is absolutely fine and will actually give more mobility to the wearer because if the armhole is too large it restricts the arm movement, the closer the armcye seam is to the body the more movement there is. True story.
Anyway your homework is to draft the sleeves on page 50, 51 and the bell sleeve on page 52 and the larger upper arm adjustment on page 53, cut one sleeve of each style out of fabric just to see what it looks like.
Sorry for the delay in posting this, had a mother of the bride emergency! A poor woman went to get her dress altered someplace and had to come to me to fix it..... she came yesterday morning and it was sad, the dress had to be hemmed and it was not even pressed once it was hemmed! I could not believe it plus there was a bunch of other issues that were not even addressed at all. I'm wondering if the person doing the alterations even realized what needed to be done..... I guess this is why one of my graduates was hired by Nordstrum's in the alterations department because they have been trained to look at everything on a garment when assessing an alteration plus they know how to draft patterns so they know why the garment is not fitting in the end they know where to touch to get the alteration right! But I digressed.....
Janet and Miriam are on sleeves now making them very happy and they are learning how the different adjustments affect the garment's feel and fit already expressing preferences on fit and feel of the different mock ups. This is the very basis of the program fitting the garment in the most comfortable and appropriate way possible. Once this is achieved then the students can begin to stylize according to fabrics, season etc. As the graduates have acknowledged they will never look at clothes in the same manner again! I digressed again, sorry seems I have a lot to say tonight :)
So your homework is to draft the sleeves on page 50, 51 and the bell sleeve on page 52, cut one sleeve of each style out of fabric just to see what it looks like. Next class we will be covering the pleated sleeve, there is a specific way of folding the paper to get the desired look. Be prepared to answer questions as well.
Great class Andrew, your enthusiasm is contagious! Today we started the jeans by drafting them and getting together the pattern pieces. We are nearing the end of the initial pants section that means exams, a necessary part of the program that builds confidence and makes the students aware of what they still need to learn. Andrew has been given notice of the final drafting as well as sewing exams so he is ready! In the meantime the homework assignment for this week is to trace the pattern pieces as explained in class and create a mock up. Have the back pocket design completed as well. The mock up will be done with the pockets as well as the zipper in broadcloth.
Below are a few fun facts and some guidance on the order of sewing for jeans.
Thank you to Steve Travers for coming to me with this project it was more than just a designing/sewing project, it was a history lesson as well! But my goodness a lot of work! The gold trim took forever to complete, making sure all the corners are even and sharp and all the stitching is perfectly straight. The sleeves on the jacket were made with a faux cuff to be a little more user friendly so they are actually part of the sleeve rather than a separate cuff, the jacket is made of a summer wool will breathe well, the lining on both the coat and vest is also made of natural fibres. His reaction was that he felt like he was wearing nothing.
I am very proud to have been a part of this makeover, perhaps I might get some more period pieces in the future.
Hello ladies! You are doing such a great job with the mock ups!
Janet tried on a mock princess with the darts ending at the hips, with the neckline adjustment she has to do to eliminate the gaping there is a bit of excess around the hips and down to the hem, we did a couple of things; a) pinned one side at the side seams to take in the excess b) pinned the other side down to the hem where the princess lines would be and let me tell you side b looked like the dress was painted on Janet! The solution is to do the neckline adjustment as instructed; do the front with princess lines to the hem and take in the excess at that point, the results are mind blowing!
Miriam, madame "I don't wear dresses" Miriam, made a dress to attend a wedding and it was BEAUTIFUL!!! The fit was impeccable and the "sleeves" (volant) really added to it. I loved Miriam's reaction when I called her on the former stance on dresses, she said she is open to anything now! This is the whole point to get people to be adventurous with their wardrobe choices/options, the fact that Miriam is now open to wearing skirts and dresses is of great personal satisfaction to me but more so to her because there are now choices that seemed to be out of the question prior to taking this course.
So now for the bad news LOL homework:
Homework is to draft a sleeve using personal measurements and another set of measurements (different from the generic ones), create a mock up sleeve in your personal measurements using one of the mock ups already made please.
Well another talented student! Nita worked very hard and diligently to create a princess front and back mock up, turned out fabulously well, fit like a glove! She tapered the hemline so it was literally like a glove.... LOL no worries we have all done that and learned a little tapering goes a long way in shaping.
Can't wait for the class to convene in October, very excited at teaching these talented ladies a few things especially the pants.
Anyway for homework please do the following:
Follow pages 50 – 51 for homework create a bodice front and back of her choice and add a sleeve to it. The armhole must be ready for the sleeve and show all the work in the same manner as I showed during our session, colour code the armhole to reflect the numbers please.
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"