Every time I think Andrew will be challenged he proves me wrong and understands the work perfectly!  The raglan sleeve that stumps EVERYONE didn't even phase Andrew, it was a yawn for him to draft and front and back and trace the pattern pieces!  This young man was born to be a tailor! 

Homework is to draft a raglan using personal measurements taking into account the paper sample’s findings that 1 to 2 cm should be added to the centre back; draft a second raglan pattern as a different set of measurements and sew together the paper to fit the wearer. 
A reflection sheet for the suit was to be written but was not completed it can be a few paragraphs long in the form of a synopsis on the suit.  This is an important part of learning, putting things in writing organizes thoughts but more importantly it organizes the work for the next project and is part of the personal portfolio to track one’s progress. Please have this sheet ready for next class.  Like I said it doesn't need to be long only concise. 
Have a great week!

Janet was challenged with the raglan sleeve like so many others before her it took a bit to wrap her head around the layered pattern pieces but once she could see the bodice sections it became clear which pieces were which.  Even though it is a challenge it's still easier than the method I was taught in the '70s when the bodice and sleeve were drafted separately let me tell you it was very challenging to sew them together.  Getting the bodice and sleeve to fit well together was not easy, fitting the body was even less so! Janet is a trooper and did not give up until she understood it and understand it she did, there will be no stopping her now!

Homework is to draft a raglan sleeve pattern using different measurements, create a mock up for the raglan using personal measurements. 
See you in a couple of weeks

Yes there is homework!  We covered a lot of ground yesterday if the students don't do the homework while it is fresh in the mind they will lose the information so it would have been a total waste of time which would be such a shame after all the hard work and weeks of great learning. 

It has been such a pleasure to teach this class even though I had to drive 2 hours to get there but all for a great cause, they were missing integral information on how to draft the basic block, in the students' own words they said their lives have been forever changed for the better!  They now feel more confident when drafting and more at ease with the whole process which is great that is the whole point to not be afraid to go outside one's comfort zone and if a mistake does happen consider it a very good learning opportunity.  Listen to the fabric, pay attention to the lines they will never lead you astray; nothing happens overnight it takes time and patience to perfect the art of pattern making but in the end there is nothing that feels better than a well fitting garment that was made by you. 

I can see a bright future in the fashion world for these 8 talented people, they will go forward and make their own difference in the world whether they work for the industry or in their own business they will excel, of this I am certain! It has been my privilege to be their teacher even for a short time.  Good luck in all your future endeavors. 

In the meantime please do one of each so you can practice the drafts we discussed yesterday; a bustier pattern or an empire cut pattern; a man's shirt complete with collar made with both the red square and just using a measuring tape as shown in the book and cuffs; a raglan sleeve pattern as shown on page 111 and 104.  This will keep you out of trouble for a few days LOL! 

Keep in touch I look forward to hearing all the great things you will be doing!

It was such a privilege to work with this fabric, they sure don't make them like that any more!  The client was very happy indeed with such a great fitting dress, I think her favourite part was the capelet complete with the blingy enclosures! 
I was very happy with how the dress fit, don't think she would have had much luck trying to find something off the rack.  It would have been very difficult for her to fit her body because of all the issues that inevitably become a reality with the passage of time.  I was just happy that I was able to create something that fit her well and made her happy.
To see pictures please click here
Have a great day!

Second last class for this group of talented individuals!  It FLEW by!  I can't believe how quickly the time went by and the class almost covered the whole book in this short period of time they learned how to draft a basic bodice front and back, make fitting adjustments to better sculpt the garment to the body, a man's basic front and back, set-in sleeve, two piece sleeve, raglan for knits, pants with the addition of pockets and front fly zipper PLUS adjustments!  Whew that was a lot! 
But there is still homework for now!
Homework is to create a muslin for a pair of pants using personal measurements and bring them to class for fitting.  This will give everyone a good look at various fit issues on different bodies and how to address them.  Also draft a new raglan top using personal measurements and trace the pattern pieces, they are to be brought to class for review.  Next week is our last class already!  As promised it is an open class after the pants fitting so we can work on drafts that are of interest to the class, you pick!  I have already been asked to show some lingerie patterns or a bustier, are there any other requests?

Well we had a great class with Janet last night, we covered a lot of ground and landed on the dreaded Raglan sleeve!  Did you know the sleeve was named for the Earl of Raglan who lost his arm in a battle?  The tailors, in their wisdom invented a garment that has both sleeve and bodice all in one to avoid the armhole..... I could kick their butts!!!!  It is a tricky draft to master but once it is mastered then it becomes easy.  It is a particularly difficult pattern to teach because there is not as much structure as a set-in sleeve with the armhole and more structure than a Dolman sleeve so good luck is all I can say!!! 

Homework is to

• Go over the cowl neck on page 91, draft a front if the method is understood for the lower left graphic. 
• Practice the adjustment for the smaller shoulders as shown on page 73, bottom right graphic plus add the dart to eliminate the excess front length on the bodice as shown on page 72, we covered this in class and it happens more often than not that the front neck to waist is longer than the back on women who carry the weight on the front of their body. 
• This is re-enforced on page 74 – 75 showing the strapless dress as well as one with straps, enlarge the base dart at the top of the neckline, this is done to better hug the body so anyone can wear a strap/strapless dress/top. 
• The focus of last night’s class was the Raglan sleeve, it is not a difficult sleeve to draft once one understand the basic lines and their uses especially how to draw in the mirror image curve for the sleeve and bodice, it takes a bit to process the information making the Raglan one of the most difficult to grasp initially. 
• Draft a front and back Raglan sleeve using page 104 as a guide, they have done the draft in two steps, first the front and then the back.  Try this out but if it proves too difficult to understand just analyze the pattern, jot down any questions and we will re-visit it at the next class. 
  

I am posting this homework assignment but it seems to be redundant because Andrew has already finished his suit!  He was here yesterday for a few hours and then went home with a laundry list of things to do!  I got busy today and at around 3 pm I couldn't wait any longer and texted him asking if he had indeed finished his suit, he was supposed to wear it today, he said he "had finished it about 20 minutes ago and it looks beautiful!"  I had no doubts that he would get it done and it would look great!  However he hasn't sent any pictures yet.....  :(
I have only a picture of him working here yesterday so I will post that one for the time being.
To finish blazer

• tack down armcye at point C, D
• tack the sleeve hem down at the seam allowances
• especially the vents so the seam resembles an L
• miter the corners on the vents
• tack the hem allowance down at the seams on the jacket
• tack the lining down with a slip stitch to the hem allowance
• also tack the lining to the vent sides with a slip stitch
• remove all the tailor tacking from the inside before closing the jacket
• once the jacket is closed press it and then remove the remaining front and shoulder pad basting
• take to a dry cleaner for a final pressing

  So this was yesterday at 2 pm!  The jacket was still in separate pieces, he left at 2:30 armed with notes and videos to complete the task!  Kudos Andrew for a job well done!

What a day yesterday!  Lots of driving for yours truly but all worth it for this class!  We did the pants draft starting with the front using generic measurements, went on to the front using personal measurements and then the back.  We were almost done when we were very unceremoniously asked to finish there was someone waiting for the space for a birthday party! We were so engrossed in our work we lost track of time, so we packed up and left, what could we do?  We are going to have a longer class next week at least that was the plan from the beginning..... 

Homework is to complete the pants back using personal measurements as shown on page 11 in the instruction book, cut out and sew a mock up using personal measurements to fit the following week.  Create a new front and back draft using different measurements if possible sew together mock up and fit the wearer.  If anyone can bring a fit model in for the next class that would be very helpful in understanding how to fit the body for everyone, this is all pending the completion of the pants back as I said in the email I sent.  No worries we will make it work.....

Andrew gave me a chuckle on Thursday, he was so worried he would not have enough fabric to cut out his pants and upper and under sleeve, so he brought the fabric and said that seeing I'm the magician in this relationship please do my magic and find enough fabric to cut out the pieces LOL!!!  I keep saying I'm only a tailor not a magician but I guess this time he was right because there was more than enough fabric for both the sleeves AND pants plus the waistband pocket insert and change left over!!!  He took many pix of the pattern placement so he could duplicate it. 

We are going to Skype  early in the week so he can work on the finishing touches on Thursday on the jacket.  The wedding he is wearing the suit to is on Friday if you can believe it!  It was quite an undertaking for a student to WANT  to make a suit this early in his studies to actually wear to a function!  It is a lot of work to successfully complete this at this stage of experience AND such a short timeline.  All this plus he made the groom's shirt with French cuffs, imagine having the courage to make the most important garment a man will wear in his life while still a student!!!  That takes guts.

Homework is to:

• Add twill tape to canvas front
• Add fusible interfacing to hem allowances, vents and front facing (this in its entirety)
• Add fusible interfacing to sleeve hem allowance and vent as well
• Sew the sleeve lining on to the lining, we will be “bagging” the lining on this jacket rather than adding the collar by hand
• Sew together the sleeves with one mitered corner and one just stitched as shown in class demo
• When ready we will Skype to add the collar (both upper and under), do the rollino on the sleeve cap on jacket and whatever else we can do to be ready for the finishing in class
  

Next Thursday the objective is to finish the vents and hem by hand and give the jacket a final pressing.  Bring the pants as well so we can see the finished product just to see if all is well before venturing out into the world with a brand new suit!

Aaryn is a hoot in class!  So precise with her work and takes copious notes of EVERYTHING!!!   She really is grasping the drafting very well, we are going to be doing more sewing as well during the classes. Also the foundation materials are a bit of a mystery to Aaryn so we are going to demystify them as we go along. 
Homework is to re-trace page 25 from master, cut out another pencil and A-line skirt.  Finish Pjs as instructed, sew together another pencil skirt using the correct seam allowance leaving the front on the fold as well.  Next class, August 2 at 9 am.