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Hello ladies job well done today! There were a couple of missteps so the ladies (in their words) "bonded" with their seam ripper :) ....... a lot! However there was a lot of ground covered with the man's shirt but there are still some outstanding issues that need to be addressed so the students decided to add another day of classes to complete the task and tie up loose ends on other garments. A wise decision in my opinion because there is only so much the brain will absorb at one time so there will be homework assigned.
For next week please have your shirts flat fell seams completed, cut a muslin (single layer) of the collar and stand put them together and hand baste it on the shirt to see the fit. If it's fine then go ahead and cut the cuffs, collar and stand out of the fabric. Next week we will be finishing the shirt and then working on anything else you would like to have clarified such as the mitered corner on the asymmetrical top etc. Have a great week! Hello ladies shirts are looking good!
Your homework for this week is to cut and sew the collar and stand for the mock up just to get some practice and to try it on to see if it fits well or not. You are to finish the flat fell seams on the sleeves and sides as shown in class. Please interface the collar, stand and cuffs ready to sew together in class next week. I am hoping to have the shirts finished in the next class so have your buttons as well as any presser foot required for the buttonholes. The shirts are not that difficult once you get going on them, they actually are done fairly quickly. Also please think of a blazer with a shawl collar and have an idea of the fabric you would like to use for this project. We will be going over the materials required next week. Have a good one! Well ladies you have completed your introduction to pattern drafting a bodice and pants with flying colours I might add! In 24 hours of instruction time you all have successfully completed the bodice front and back both a sheath and princess front, set in sleeve, pants front and back and adjustments!
Today was particularly productive because everyone is familiar with both the tools and the lingo so we could fine tune any personal adjustments that were necessary. My recommendation to all is to create new drafts incorporating the changes discussed in class ASAP while everything is still fresh in your mind. Next step is to find another fit model with an entirely different shape and create drafts for them taking into account the actual measurements and comparing them to the draft, make the changes as shown in class. If you can make a mock up for the person and fit them reading the mock up to see if your assessment of the body is correct. For future studies my suggestion was to find something of interest to all and do full day workshops to complete the instruction book. I have every faith that you will complete the book in record time, the talent in the group is unparalleled! Thank you for allowing me the privilege of sharing some of my knowledge with you, it has been my pleasure! Well ladies I have been lacking in posting updates, sorry! Day 3 the ladies started on their bodice drafts with shaping to better understand the principles behind the shaping as well as get started on the princess lines. They drafted, cut and sewed the lining ready to try on in the afternoon. Once they fit the lining they made further changes on the pattern pieces and master pattern. Once that was done we drafted and sewed a semi-circle skirt complete with lapped zipper! Students got to install the waistband at home that evening.
Day 4 Everyone was bright and eager to sew the dress! The dress was cut, marked and sewn together with minimal difficulty. In the afternoon students were given a tutorial on how to install an invisible zipper which they found very easy, anything can be done with the right equipment and the little plastic invisible zipper foot really makes a difference in the ease and accuracy as to how the zipper is installed. Day 5 The alterations on the lining are done, the invisible zipper has been installed, they did a professional job the zipper was totally hidden into the seam. Students were taught how to install the lining at the neckline properly and were very happy with the outcome of both the fit and finish of the neckline! Once the dresses were pressed and they were tried on the ladies were very happy and commented that it felt like they were wearing nothing, this is how a garment should fit (FYI)! By afternoon they were ready to finish the armholes with facings if only to learn how to both draft and install facings, they are to finish this task at home. At the end of the day the ladies hemmed each others' circle skirts which they finished beautifully at the waistband only to be told they will be taken apart and a silk chiffon layer will be added to the linen! I think they fainted when they were told this was one of the tasks to be done at home. In the end the accomplished so much work it would blow your mind to try and quantify it! In 10 days they drafted and sewed the following:
Ladies it was my pleasure to teach you a few things I hope you had a bit of fun in the process! What a great day we had in Toronto! We went to Beker Fashions to visit the factory and see it in action. Ron Beker the owner, very graciously answered our questions and gave us a tour of the factory showing us the finished products and the journey the garments take from sketch to beautiful evening wear. The students really enjoyed the whole process and learned a lot!
Next stop Rustic Bakery for some fantastic bread, cappuccino and sweet treats, from there we went to Sultan's Fabrics a mecca of very fine wool/silk/cotton suitings, coatings and shirtings. Sultan is extremely knowledgeable and kindly shared some of his story with us, we were like kids in a candy store everyone found something they could not live without including me! We then went for lunch at a Korean BBQ place just down the street. Off to Roma Textiles to see some very fine laces and silks Mr. Frank and Mrs. Maria are always accommodating and patient. Also very knowledgeable Mrs. Maria showed the students different laces and fine silks and explained how to tell the difference between weaves as well as the fibres by touching them. Again there was stuff we could not live without! I want to thank the merchants for their time and patience this is what education is all about! The ladies got a nice break so they will be fresh and ready to go back to work in the morning. So when we were choosing a name for these courses "boot camp" was one of the choices, seemed a bit harsh so the powers that be decided on "intensive" instead. Boot camp is actually a little closer to the reality of these courses than intensive, if the truth be told "intensive boot camp" would be the most accurate! Just ask the students they will tell you.
Today the ladies learned about shaping the bodice by adding darts and shaping the side seam, that was this morning after they tried on the initial mock up done at home by the skype instructions. Once they tried on the mock up they had to learn how to "read" it on the body then take each others measurements and do a brand new draft taking into account what they learned from the initial mock up. Their homework is to cut and sew a new mock up with the new draft and have it ready for Wednesday. We are going on a field trip on Tuesday so that was out. In the afternoon we finished some loose ends for the pants and then it was forward and onward with drafting for knits/stretch fabrics! They were told to do a brand new draft once again to which a question was "why can't we trace from the master pattern we did this morning?" What do you think they were allowed to trace or not? In any case the top was sewn together before home time to the point it could be finished at home because the neckline had been done in class with a contrasting ribbed finish as an instruction so the armholes and hemline were left to do at home. This is only DAY ONE! This has been the first intensive class for pants and I can tell you these ladies set the bar pretty high! They have been working very, very hard this week and have accomplished a lot! In one short week they learned how to:
Now on to the bodice, set-in sleeve, circle skirt and volants next week! Oh and field trip! Wow is all I can say for today! These ladies did so much work today they thought they were in the Georgian Sweat Shop! They drafted their jeans pattern but before that we went over the changes made on the dress pants with a higher waistline and put them on the pattern pieces, they are to now trace adjusted pattern pieces and keep them with this pattern so they can track the changes done for future reference. I am trying to give as much information for them to take home as possible so they can refer back to it and understand what it is that was done to achieve the right fit.
If that wasn't enough they then drafted a new pattern for the jeans incorporating some of the changes that were necessary and related to the jean fit with a lower rise. They got that all done and then we proceeded to create the front fly zipper storyboards (OK students stop rolling your eyes you know they are very useful in the future!) to which they thought it was some form of torture that was inflicted on to them for some unknown reason, perhaps something from another lifetime catching up to them :) In the end they realized the value of such an exercise so tonight the homework (yes there is homework!) is to cut the jeans out and bring them into class already marked good to go for sewing in the morning. I mean nothing much is going on between 3 and 4 am what's the problem with a bit of homework! All kidding aside these ladies have covered so much ground since Monday it's mind boggling! I could not be more proud. Keep you posted..... Hello ladies told you I had to up my game to keep up with these two students! They are doing a phenomenal job ats both sewing and drafting! Between yesterday and today they completely finished another pair of pants with zipper, waistband, blind hem as well as serging all the seam allowances! If that's not enough they also created a pockets storyboard, a 3D reference students take home to use when necessary. It is very helpful in showing the steps in the pocket installation. Tomorrow they will be doing the zipper storyboard for the front fly zipper and then start on their brand new custom made jeans to be completed by the end of day on Friday.
I think what struck them most today was the simplicity of adding the waistband to the pants, when I finished the demo they just looked at each other and then at me stunned as to how few steps and how simple the waistband is to install! They both did a great job with their buttonholes as well. I think it was the first time for both of them... Keep up the good work ladies! WOW! Is all I can say about these ladies! With only a few short skype classes in the first day of in class instruction they managed to finish a pair of pants with no side seams from start to finish! The best part is THE PANTS FIT THEM! They drafted the pants before lunch and sewed them together after lunch.
I'm going to have to up my game if I am to keep up with these ladies! Keep you posted with the daily activities! |
AuthorMaria Calautti, "Jack of all trades" Archives
January 2021
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