Andrew took the plunge and added the pockets to the jacket front on his own and did a great job! There were a couple of issues that we fixed in class, he was impressed with my fixing prowess I told him I'm such and expert because I have had to do these fixes on many occasions for myself LOL!!!
There was a little fly in the ointment today, the canvas was fusible instead of the sew in type that is best for men's wear so the stay will have to be re-sewn on to the canvas before it can be basted on to the jacket front. Once the pockets are in and the canvas is in one is home free, the rest doesn't take so long to finish. Of course there are the sleeves to be tailored, compared to adding the pockets the sleeves are relatively straight forward!
Homework is to Sew together the canvas and front stay complete with border
Great job on the knit tops! Janet got all the homework done with flair! It's always so nice to see students really succeed in creating garments they love to wear!
Just to re-cap the Dolman sleeve:
Have a great couple of weeks!
Another very successful class! Yesterday we covered a lot of ground again, in three short hours the students learned more about fitting the body through some pictures and mock ups to show how to deal with real life issues.
Gravity, age, posture have all taken a toll giving a tailor a bit of work to fit the body. The important thing to remember is if the pattern/garment do not look like the “standard” you have done nothing wrong, you have been following the body and accounting for the issues which is a good thing! The most important thing is fitting the wearer properly especially an elder because of gravity, posture etc so try to get the vertical lines as perpendicular to the floor as possible and the horizontal lines as parallel to the floor as possible, sometimes the lines just look a little better if they are not perfectly perpendicular to the floor and follow the lines of the body to a degree; for example the front of a dress might look better with the line (if there are any) slightly to the left/right but the back looks better with the lines straight up and down even if it means back halves are different widths.
In a situation like this there is “cause and effect” factor, the mock up was sewn using the basic pattern as drafted, of course it didn’t fit properly there were pull lines going from the right to the left sides, the back seam along with the darts were pulling towards the left making the seam crooked, the front was too big around the bust, the back was too small at the shoulder blades. While she was wearing the mock up I ripped open the side seam where the lines were pointing and added some fabric to the opening, added some fabric to the centre back again where the lines were pointing, pinned the side seam on the right side where it was loose. This took care of some of the issues and brought out the secondary issues that needed to be addressed, this is why I always cut the lining before the fabric particularly when the fabric is expensive or in this case antique and cannot be replaced. Once the lining is fit exactly the way it will sit on the body, meaning it is to be fit inside out, I take into account any further changes and make them on the paper pattern then, and only then, will I cut the fabric. This way you have a fighting chance of making a garment fit impeccably on the wearer leading to a repeat client.
There was some discussion in class about possibly starting the pants next class, upon reviewing the syllabus and reflection on my part I decided it would be best to continue with the two piece sleeve and adding the Dolman sleeve along with a men's block to keep the proper flow of learning on the bodice. The pants are best to be started fresh on week 5 so we can focus on fitting them during week 6 (that is going to be the longer class) and continue with knits, skirts and anything else that is of interest or foggy during week 7. I hope this is OK with everyone.... During week 6 if you are making pants for someone else they are welcome to attend class as a fit model so we can assess the fit issues and solutions if any significant issues arise.
Homework is to draft a new pattern using personal/generic measurements with front and back princess seams, make the armhole adjustment for the sleeve and draft a set-in sleeve. Make the larger upper arm adjustment as well on a second sleeve. Next week we will be continuing with the two piece sleeve and then create a basic block for men’s wear to learn the Dolman sleeve. Please bring a fresh pattern to class using personal measurements complete with shaping and armhole adjustments ready to draft the two piece sleeve.
Great class yesterday! We covered a lot of ground, more pad-stitching for a notched collar, how to do mitered corners, how to cut both upper and under notched collar, how to install a cuff on a shirt sleeve, make a French cuff, alter a shirt pattern to fit the wearer's body and finally adding the collar to a shirt! Whew all this in only TWO hours! If you think this is a lot you are correct it is quite a lot of information but Andrew gets it in no time! He understands exactly what it is I'm telling him.
He also got a pep talk regarding fear, I basically told him to have none, be fearless and go forward. He is a little apprehensive about taking the plunge and adding pockets to the actual jacket that he is making with quite expensive fabric. I asked if he wanted to do it in class but he declined saying he has to learn how to work on his own, I applaud this stance! The reasoning I gave for being fearless is that fear can paralyze a person into staying in one spot and not progressing forward, in the end it is only a garment and he has done quite a few welt samples already all he has to do is let the muscle memory take over, follow the instructions taking his time and checking measurements as he goes. If something untoward does happen it's not the end of the world some of the best design features have come from mistakes or "learning opportunities" as I like to call them. The other thing I tell all my students is don't overthink it, the minute you start second guessing yourself is the minute you start running into problems.
Homework will be complete the pad-stitiching on the under collar as shown in class, add pockets to jacket front, add sleeves to mock up for fitting purposes, practice mitered corners on napkins then try them on the mock up sleeves; they can be done even before the sleeves are sewn together, mark the stopping point for the seam and stop sewing there when finishing the back seam on the two piece sleeve.
Have a great week!
Boy oh boy I have to get up pretty early in the morning to stay ahead of this crowd!!!! These students work at lightning speed, I ask them to do a task, blink and it's completed! Not just completed but completed accurately! So I guess I'm going to have to up my game to challenge these talented individuals :)
Yesterday we covered some adjustments to accommodate the individual body issues as shown by the actual measurements and are taken into account at the drafting stage such as the front neck to waist longer/shorter than the back. The half shoulder width longer/shorter than the pattern, double check some of the measurements for a better more accurate fit. It was a real eye opener for the class especially when they realized you can't just ignore the numbers, you have to take them into account and address them properly. A good example of this is the youtube video I posted last year www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhEn9MVV46M
For the first homework assignment you were asked to draft patterns using personal measurements or a significant other, you were asked not to make any changes to the pattern that may have been reflected in the measurements. This is because to figure out where you are going you have to understand where you have been first. The starting point is the basic draft and shaping with no changes to more accurately see where changes need to take place if necessary. Once the mock ups are fit we will take into account any issues that may arise and make the necessary changes to the paper pattern.
Homework will be to draft one master pattern, two styles as shown on page 43 - 44, trace the pattern pieces and sew together a mock up of a princess seam dress taking your cues from the measurements used the previous week for any adjustments as shown in class. In class I said I want to see if you can figure out how to make a dress pattern out of basic bodice by adding the skirt length from the waist down, as I said I am challenging you! Please bring all the pattern pieces to class next week for me to check. In the event you were unable to complete the sheath top that was assigned the week before you are to complete that one as well.
The class next week will start at 12:30 and finish at 3:30 promptly there is a party or something at 4.....
Have a great week!
Very proud of Andrew, he completed all his homework so we were able to fit the jacket this morning and it was an almost perfect fit! He is so thin that it just needed taking in at the seams, no big deal we encounter this all the time in tailoring..... But once the garment fits it fits well!
So after the fitting we "read" the mock up to see what it was telling us, we then took our findings to the master pattern and made the necessary changes such as: the seams all needed to be tapered from the underarm to the waist besides the centre back seam which needs to be taken in all the way to the hem. As a result of taking in the seams the armhole needed to be enlarged slightly, not a big deal at this stage.... the sleeves were done correctly with only some minor fine tuning that I showed Andrew in class.
My favourite part of a class is when I show a technique to students and once finished they actually say "Is that it?" this tells me they have understood the technique perfectly which makes me very happy! This morning I showed Andrew how to create the lining pieces for the back vents on men's wear, the seams are not one on top of the other, they are staggered to make the finish more polished and reduce bulk. On the master pattern it can get quite confusing for a less experienced tailor to have all those lines but by placing a piece of tracing paper on top of the master pattern and drawing the lining pieces on that separate piece it makes it much easier to understand the mechanics behind the draft. Kudos to Andrew for saying "Is that it?" when he was finished!
Homework is to trace all remaining pattern pieces, cut out the lining pieces, canvas and front stay pieces, jacket pieces, collar and upper collar will be cut in class next week. I want to see all the markings/reference points on the pattern pieces both paper and fabric. Sew the lining pieces together with the front facing as well. Practice the hand stitching as shown in class on the sample for the notched collar and bring it in for assessment next week.
Have a good one!!!
What a lot of work Aaryn did during her time off! Great job on another skirt storyboard using personal measurements! I was very impressed with the care and accuracy taken by this student who is a real beginner. I can see she will have no trouble figuring out pattern drafting at all and once she figures this out Aaryn will really be able to indulge her passion for vintage styles seeing I am vintage myself I can teach her a lot LOL!!!
Homework is to draft a tapered and A-line skirt using personal measurements and one master pattern. Finish mock up of pencil skirt, second mock up of A-line or tapered, practice tailor tacking and hand basting even on some fabric scraps it really helps when you practice. Also read ahead a bit in the book just to see what you can glean from the graphics and the instructions. You don't need to do anything else just read the instruction and the graphics.
Next class is July 4? I will have to confirm this date with you.
Have a great day!
Hello again it seems I have been having many senior moments lately LOL!
These patterns DO NOT include seam allowances. Please leave 3 cm seam allowances only at the side seams, shoulder seams and centre back seam, no seam allowances at the neckline or hemline at this time. Also leave the centre back open for the fitting next week.
Please bring a sewing kit or pins with you for the fittings.
Excellent work Graduates!
Thank you to Michael's for allowing students to use the craft room.
What a great group of people, they learned how to draft a basic bodice in record time! Well worth the 2 hour drive to teach this class in my opinion!
In short in 3 hours they did the equivalent of 4 days worth of work, AMAZING! Starting with the basic block that looks nothing like a traditional basic block, it has no shaping whatsoever only based on the personal measurements or whichever measurements are to be used. We went as far as the hip line for the bodice and then added shaping to make a sheath top, they were taught how to transfer the fullness of the base dart to the dressmaker dart and add the fish eye dart to both the front and back. In a first class this is pretty remarkable progress, one student was a bit down on himself for having made a mistake and I re-assured him it was fine because they had been using the tools for one whole HOUR to cut himself some slack, he felt better after that.
I don't consider mistakes a show of incompetence, I consider them learning opportunities, in fact once a mistake is identified I always ask "so what did you learn from that?" The students then realize that they learned a lot more than if the result was textbook perfect turning what could have been a negative experience into a very positive one especially when I continue by saying "so how can it be fixed?" making them think a little outside the box. We figure it out eventually and it's something that will never be forgotten.
Homework is to draft a sheath front and back (the exact same as we did in class) using personal measurements, create a muslin and bring it to class for a fitting next week. The gentlemen in the class are to use a fit model if possible, or get measurements from one of the female classmates and create a pattern and muslin using those measurements, it will make for an interesting fit session. Disregard any discrepancies with the lines between the front and back, the way I saw measurements yesterday there will be differences but for now ignore them as they will make for great learning opportunities next week. We can meet directly in the craft room now that we know where it is.
Ciao have a great week!
Sunday is the day! We start a new adventure with a group of highly educated individuals who want to learn more about drafting basic blocks. I am truly humbled to have been asked to teach this class, an opportunity like this doesn't come around very often for a teacher, I only hope I will do the class justice.
So we will meet in the parking lot at 267 Richmond St. at 12:30 pm to pick up the kits. We will then head to Michael's for the class.
I sent a list of materials to have for the first class if anyone of the students have not received it please contact me and I will re-send it to you.
There are 2 spots left if anyone is interested in joining this group contact me anytime.
See you there!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"