Le Grand Chic Italia School of Fashion in Canada
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  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple
Maria Calautti
Founder
Master Tailor
Pattern Maker
Alterations Specialist
Instructor
mcalautti@rogers.com

Maria's Blog

Tuesday June 30, 2015 pants sewing class final exam 

6/30/2015

 
Well ladies I have to congratulate you on a job well done in this course!  You all did a FANTASTIC job creating pants that fit! 
Now comes the true test, the final exam!  I'm sure you will all ace the exam without a problem, think perfection and you will be OK! 
Final exam is due 2 weeks from today and is worth 100% of the final mark, it must include the following: 

Original pants design with these elements:

·         Front fly zipper

·         pockets (front)

·         Waistband

·         Decorative stitching/element

·         Blind hem or rolled hem whichever is most appropriate for the pants

Portfolio page with:

·         Sketch

·         Picture of pattern placement on fabric

·         Picture of finished garment worn by model/self
          Write a few words on what the design means to you, the thought process behind the design, the challenges  
          faced during the construction process, explain the fabric and why you chose the particular design/fabric. 

THE FIT IS PARAMOUNT!  The pants MUST fit the wearer perfectly without any “rays”.  They must hug the body and hang perfectly from the waist, hips and crotch. 

Have a great couple of weeks!

Monday June 29, 2015 tops and dresses homework 

6/29/2015

 
Hello ladies that was quite the mental workout today :)
You did an AMAZING job on the shirts!  Even though we draft the patterns using personal measurements they still have to be tweaked to fit properly.  The fit is paramount after all a garment can look great and be finished perfectly, if it doesn't fit it will not be worn.  So patience is the key and keep working with the mock up, reading it, adjusting it and recording the findings on your master pattern for future reference the do it again and again if necessary.  As you progress the steps will be less and less you will learn to see the issues right off the bat and make the necessary adjustments with a lot more ease and much more quickly. 
Your homework is to draft a brand new shirt using the same measurements used in class incorporating the the changes as necessary as seen on the mock up.  Trace the new pattern pieces and cut a new mock up for comparison purposes.  Do a second draft using different measurements and trace the pattern pieces, if you have time in the almost month long break do a mock up for the other wearer :)  as well.  Bring everything to the next class. 

Next class we will be completing the shirt by drafting the collar and cuffs and we will be sewing it together completely in class so bring buttons and anything else required to complete the shirt.  Be prepared to work hard! 
Have a great day and time off. 

PS:  please don't forget about the other tops try to go over the drafts and make the adjustments we discussed in class this morning for a perfect fitting asymmetrical top! 

Friday June 26, 2015 Tonia and Kelli homework 

6/27/2015

 
Hello ladies your speed amazes me!  This week there is no homework for you.  Go over the man's shirt method in your book read it only we will be drafting in class.
Have a great week! 

Thursday June 25, 2015 La modellista homework 

6/27/2015

 
·        Advanced dresses         page 42 – 43, 46-47, 54 – 56, 57, 58 – 59
·         Complex dresses         page 63, 64, 60, 66 – 67
         Raglan sleeve dresses   page 100, 101,102
         Asymmetrical dresses   page 73, 74, 75
Hello ladies above are the page numbers of the material covered in the past dresses section of book 2.  The final exam will have a few general questions from each section and is worth 50% of the final mark with the asymmetrical finished garment worth 50% of the final mark.  The whole idea is to tie the dresses section together because dresses come in a variety of styles. Drafting methods can be used individually or in conjunction with each other as I have shown with the raglan sleeve dress I made incorporating asymmetry, raglan, slight empire and rouching.  When a variety of methods are incorporated into one garment they can create a stunning look giving that "wow" factor we all desire.  I know it seems harsh to test students on things they learned almost 2 years ago but I know you are up to the challenge and have every faith you will all ace the exam! 

,



Wednesday June 24, 2015 beginner drafting homework 

6/25/2015

 
Hello ladies what a day of mental aerobics yesterday!  I'm sure you were all pretty much done in by the end of the day!  I must say you are a resilient group of women and do a lot in a short period of time! 
Because you are so talented your homework is to do 3 new pants drafts; one using your own measurements and two using different measurements.  You can exchange measurements with each other of find a friend or three to use as fit models :)
In addition you are to create a mock up using personal measurements, mark the vertical and horizontal lines with a tracing wheel and be sure the marking are on the right side of the fabric.   The pants will be fit with the seam allowances on the the inside as you would wear them. 
The other thing we can't forget about is the bodice, because you will have about a month until the next class there is additional homework so you don't lose momentum; please re-do your bodices with the princess lines making the necessary changes that were discussed in class and fit them once again.  Once they fit perfectly you are to venture further into the book and challenge yourself with some new designs like the blouses with the yoke and two darts that transfer to the neckline, not sure of the page number as I don't have the book in front of me at the moment.......  Also please re-do your sleeves and draft some sleeve variations as shown in the book, the flared sleeve, gathered/pleated sleeve cap, make the larger upper arm adjustment as well. 
That should keep you busy who needs to sleep right?  Have a great few weeks, ciao

Tuesday June 23, 2015 pants sewing class homework 

6/25/2015

 
Hello ladies the good news is you don't have any homework!  Please leave the jeans to finish in class.  This is our last week and we will be skyping with Emmely a blogger from the Netherlands who has been working on jeans and is having quite a time with the fit.  I am hoping the class can help her cut down on the amount of mock ups she was anticipating doing  to achieve a good fit. 
Also please have a plan ready for your final exam and run it by me just to check and see if it will fit the criteria.  You will have 2 weeks to complete the exam and hand it in for grading.  I know you will all ace this exam you are all that talented!
See you Tuesday :)

Monday June 22, 2015 Tonia and Kelli homework 

6/25/2015

 
Hello ladies guess it's better late than never :)
You already did a mock up in class so your homework is to draft a front and back using personal measurements ready for the asymimetrical top.  Please do not put any shaping other than the shoulder incline extension for the base dart and re-draw the armhole.  The rest will be done in class.  Bring some fabric to use for a mock up as well for this top. 
See you tomorrow! 

Thursday June 18, 2015 La modellista homework 

6/19/2015

 
Hello ladies not sure what happened yesterday but it was small class to say the least!  The ones who were in class and got the mock up done you are to think about which of the three designs you would like to make as a finished garment.  Make the necessary adjustments to the mock up as discussed in class.  If you were unable to complete the mock up in class then your task is to complete it and bring it to class next week. 
The rest who were not in class are to catch up by completing the pattern, tracing the pattern pieces, and creating the mock up.  Please bring it to class next week for a fitting. 
The whole class will be starting the garment as there are only 3 classes left to complete the task.  Have your decision made as to which style you will choose to finish, bring in your fabric etc as well.
Have a great week

Wednesday June 17, 2015 tops/dresses drafting and sewing class homework 

6/17/2015

 
Hello ladies wonderful work today!  The asymmetrical top turned out to be a very nice addition to the wardrobe! 
Please finish the top with the half sleeve and armhole facing along with neckline facing.  You can choose whatever neckline you like for this top.
Next class will be on a Monday so not quite 2 weeks and we will be starting on the man's style shirt with collar and cuffs.  Please do not do any drafting at home this will be done entirely in class.  You may create this shirt using personal measurements or if there is a man in your life, you can choose to make it for him.  If this is the case please be sure to bring the measurements with you.  In addition to all the usual measurements you are to take the actual neck measurement on the wearer as well as the wrist with a bit of ease for the cuffs.  If you can bring in a shirt that fits him well it would be a big help too. 
Beyond that there is no homework, enjoy. 

Tuesday June 16, 2015 pants sewing class homework 

6/17/2015

 
Hello ladies
Great job on the dress pants!  You managed to achieve a GREAT fit!  Best I have seen yet! 
Your homework is to finish the dress pants as well as hem the palazzo pants if you haven't already, thought we could do it in class but it's just not in the cards it seems. 

In addition you are draft a new front (with the fly) and back for the jeans we are starting next week.  We will be adding the pockets, back yoke and tapering the legs in class.  Make a note of the individual issues that were present during the fitting in the last class, we will be taking them into account at the draft stage this time. 

Please be sure to have you denim, some fabric for the pockets either a drapery lining, cotton sheeting or even muslin, topstitching thread, zipper, button, hammer and anything else you might like on the jeans. 
We will be creating the pockets slightly differently than the storyboards making the pocket sack in one piece instead of two.  The zipper will be the same with the addition of the decorative topstitching. 

Have a great week!
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  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple