Well what a great class on Thursday! Andrew completed all the homework so we could do all we set out to do in the two hours allotted for this class; he installed a breast pocket without any problems whatsoever and not even a practice piece was used! We had to re-shape the full canvas because I gapped it and didn't take into account the shawl collar, the canvas has to be cut in one piece for collar and body..... OOOOps! Anyway it happens to the best of us, senior moments that is 😉
I even showed him how to install a bustle on a wedding gown, now sure how this would ever relate to men's wear but it's information he can use in the future!
Homework is to hand baste the canvas to the jacket front, press and shape as shown, complete the pad-stitching by first drawing in the lines as shown then pad-stitching over index finger as practised in the previous class; add twill tape around the canvas at the centre front seam allowance straddling the canvas and catch stitching it with stitches that are invisible on the outside, catching the canvas only on the other side. The other thing is to add twill tape at the shoulder incline in the same manner as the centre front.
NIn my opinion all men should carry purses instead of having pockets!!!😡
If you count how many pockets are in a suit it's mind boggling! On the jacket there are a minimum of FIVE count them FIVE pockets; 2 on the inside, 2 on the outside and an extra breast pocket just in case you didn't have enough fun putting in the rest!!! Now there is an extra pocket on top of the front pocket on the right side just for good measure. Guess what the front pockets have to add to the mix: A FLAP TO COVER THE POCKET OPENING ONE WORKS SO HARD TO PERFECT!!!
Now lets talk about the pants they have 2 front pockets, 2 back pockets and some even have a pocket within a pocket for change, REALLY? FOUR POCKETS AND AN EXTRA ONE IS NEEDED FOR CHANGE! 😡
So the total pockets can range from 9 at a minimum to 11 or 12 at a maximum, do you know how much work it is to install all those freaking pockets?! 😡
Do I sound angry? Well I am angry at myself for going against my better judgement 😡
I made the pants back pockets with one welt and a hidden button, yes they have buttons too and a tab that needs to be made instead of a simple buttonhole! They looked amazing 😀 went in like a charm!
The jacket pockets had two welts as is the traditional method on suits knowing the wearer would prefer this instead of doing something different. I DO NOT LIKE THE TWO WELTS they always seem to remain open and there is no way of making them close completely. So against my better judgement I persevered and finished the pockets for the fitting. I fit the wearer and liked the pockets even less! Andrew was very gentlemanly and deferred to me to decide on the pockets as he didn't really see an issue with them "they're pockets" he said shrugging his shoulders.....
I took the pockets apart yesterday and then realized I should have taken a picture of the before...... Oh well I took pix today. Anyway it took forever to take the freaking pockets apart, once apart I'm left with the opening, this is not a task for the faint of heart to attempt especially when the fabric is over $300 per yard!!!
Today after working constantly for over THREE hours I finally have the pockets done they way I feel they should be done! Now I'm happy with them!
Do you see why all men should carry purses for all their stuff?! It would make life sooooo much easier for tailors! 😄
Good job on the mock up Andrew!!! It fit very, very well with only some minor adjustments to be done! For a first attempt it was a job well done! There is much to do and a lot of learning going on with the construction of a blazer, the fabric he has chosen is very nice and will make a beautiful jacket that will fit impeccably!
Andrew observed that it's the greatest feeling when one drafts a pattern and the garment fits the wearer well. I agree there is nothing like it especially at the mock up stage, that is my biggest thrill when I see a theory that works let me tell you there truly is nothing better!!!
So there is homework it is to prepare the fabric, lining, canvas, twill tape etc following the anatomy of a blazer sheet. The London roll method is outlined in the instruction book, all fabrics must be ironed before cutting. Cut the fabric and all the other materials required for the blazer and tailor tack everything. We must start the construction process next class. As always if there are any questions or foggy areas call me for clarification or to lift the fog :)
It's been a while since my last post with the long weekend/Easter Holiday I haven't had a moment to spare but play time is over and I'm back at it! This week I had a bride come with the most interesting garments to alter, she is marrying a Pakistani gentleman and all her garments are the traditional styles with the most intricate and beautiful embroidery/beading ever! I thought Italians went all out for weddings well from what I can see the Eastern cultures take it even further, way further!!!
I really like the fact that there are so many parties and the bride is not allowed to wear the same garment twice :) makes me happy, this is the way it should be! When the wedding is over I will post some pix of the bride wearing each outfit. For now I am up to my eyeballs in beads, chiffon and sequins!
Andrew's suit is still waiting to be finished...... the bride is on a deadline, Andrew is not.....
Yesterday was the first fitting for the suit....... I am so happy with the results, the jacket fit very well, the hang, the drape of the fabric are perfect! The pants fit well too, I have to lower the rise at the back and that's it!
Then there is my picky eye that is not happy unless EVERYTHING is perfect! Well the pockets did not meet my criteria, they are fine with the two welts but fine is not good enough for this suit. In my eyes the two welt pockets look so ordinary and they always seem to stay open a bit no matter how well they are sewn but Andrew had said these are the pockets he would like seeing they are the traditional suit pockets so I obliged and did the traditional pockets. Well I don't like them at all, they make the suit look ordinary which is a shame for such extraordinary fabric! So it looks like I will be taking my trusty seam ripper and ripping out the finished pockets and welts and replacing them with a one welt pocket that will look amazing! If I remember I will take before and after pix to post them.
Andrew is really doing well with the blazer pattern, it's funny how it all makes sense to him! There are very few questions but a lot of writing going on! He usually has 10 pencils, two workbooks, text book and so much paper, he never stops writing/videoing/taking pictures! A great student I have to say.
Today we covered the two piece sleeve after we covered the anatomy of a blazer, this is the 45 easy steps to prepping the fabric before cutting LOL!
Homework is to cut out a mock up and sew it together before next class to check the fit, width of the lapel pocket placement etc. Do the pad-stitching as shown in class using the miniature, for this task please remove the stitching examples and place the bamboo front stay properly then sew it in by hand. Once the stay is in place hand baste the canvas to the miniature jacket front pad-stitch the lapel as shown in class going one way with the stitches and then going in the opposite direction until the lapel is complete. Please bring back to class for me to see. The other thing is to complete the anatomy of a blazer under the pattern heading with the various steps taken to draft the pattern, pattern pieces needed for the blazer, how the pattern pieces should be labeled etc.
I would also like to see the pattern pieces completely labeled and marked with grainlines, reference points etc. For next class please bring your prepared fabric, lining, canvas, twill tape, bamboo as described in the anatomy of a blazer document. We will be cutting the jacket next week perhaps even get going on the canvas if time permits.
So these talented people completed the bodice section of the program. In a short period of time they really learned a lot and accomplished even more! So now it's time for a break to put into practice all they have learned. The last class they actually cut and sewed a T-shirt for themselves in only THREE hours! Not bad for a beginner in class and one on Skype who could only write her questions/comments down with no webcam or microphone!
In the meantime homework is to make some more T-shirts to get more practice sewing, manipulating the fabric and adding the neckline finishing. Draft more patterns in different sizes of the T-shirts as well as the princess and mock princess fronts and sheath back. Remember all we discussed about fitting issues and how to take your cues from the numbers. This is the best way to keep everything fresh in your minds plus questions will arise during the drafting process that will lead to more learning so please jot them down and ask them at the beginning of the next class. We will touch base the middle of May to schedule the next set of classes to cover sleeves.
Have a great break you deserve it!
Isabella has challenged herself by choosing a plaid for her next project, a button down shirt with a front and back yoke that are going to be cut on the bias with the rest of the shirt cut on the grain. She has been introduced to the collars because her shirt has a collar, bet Isabella didn't bank on that! She is making remarkable progress with her drafting it only takes her like 5 minutes to draft a front and back bodice!
Homework is to cut out the pattern pieces as we discussed with the front and back yoke cut on the bias the rest on the grain, mark them and bring them to class to sew it together. Check the collar for fit by cutting out on paper the front, back (only the top quarter) and collar and sewing it together to paper fit the body. This is a neat trick that is very inexpensive to see if the collar is the correct size to fit the neckline as well as the measurement. The tracing paper can be sewn together like fabric and will give a good idea of how the finished product will look.
This is going to be a very easy post, NO HOMEWORK for Andrew!
We are going to have a class on Monday afternoon to continue with the blazer draft. Andrew will be introduced to the two piece sleeve, how lucky is he!
This young man is going to make a blazer by May 6, 2017 so he can wear it to a wedding the week later. It's an ambitious goal but very attainable. Keep you posted!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"