Hello all, I can't believe how quickly the class went last night! Anyway, your homework assignment is to finish the vest on page 41, once completed you are to add your own personal adjustments and be ready to explain what you did and why. The other thing is to create a bolero draft. I want to see a master pattern and the traced pattern pieces complete with markings ei: notches, grainlines etc.
Hello all, sorry for the delay in writing your homework. The class on Thursday seemed to be a real eye opener for all and as a result you will all understand the adjustments and drafts a little better.
Next class we will be lining a vest and finishing armholes and neckline on your dress if you have one made, if not use the muslin to practice and keep for future reference. Please be sure you have the vest and lining sewn, try them on for fit and adjust if necessary. Be sure you tailor tack the centre front and when closed the overlap will meet at the centre front lines and close comfortably. If you are finishing a dress be sure to have fabric that you are planning to use for the finishing, it can be the same as the dress or contrasting, it's up to you.
*note* the actual vest may be a little loose/tight, this is normal do not think you have done something wrong, this is the first "real" garment you are creating therefore it is quite fine for it not to be perfect yet.
To my Georgian students; I started a discussion board on the alterations made to the mock-ups in last week's classes. The objective is for everyone to post their personal issues along with the solutions and that way we can all learn from it. I already started the comment threads, so please take a couple of minutes to participate, everyone will benefit. Thanks in advance.
Hello all, just wanted to let you know your homework for next week. Please do a draft of the previous dress incorporating the necessary changes you require for a proper fit. Leave it in the draft stage and bring it to class next week for me to check with each of you to be sure the changes are correct and we will compare with the rest of the class and exchange results. Please DO NOT create a new mock up at this time. It makes more sense to create one after the corrections have been checked. I will also be double checking measurements on your charts, if there is a problem with the mock up it usually comes back to the measurements' accuracy.
Hello all, hope you enjoyed last night's class, I know I did! Here is your homework assignment for this week:
Today I will be working on a prototype for the uniform pants. The Cynch It pants are an evolution of the pants and back/midriff control all in one piece! Hopefully I will have a video of the drafting process and will be able to download it on to this site! Keep your fingers and toes crossed as I am not so effecient with computers!
How many women have problems with ill fitting dresses that have excess fabric at the small of the back? This is caused by a couple of things; 1) sway back or 2) a larger than average posterior. This can be easily adjusted on the paper BEFORE cutting the lining/fabric.
Step 1; create a mock up, this will tell the tale of where and how much needs to be adjusted.
Step 2; have some one pin the excess fabric in the form of a horizontal dart at the waistline from the centre back being the widest point tapering to the side seam, until all the excess is gone. Take a look at the fit and see if it falls nicely over the butt (for lack of a better term!). When satisfied with the hang of the mock up, remove the dress leaving the horizontal dart in place.
Step 3; measure the dart at the centre back, it can be anywhere from 2 cm to 5 or 6 cm depending on the wearer.
Step 4; on the paper pattern on either side of the waistline at the centre back, measure the same amount taken in on the mock up and draw lines ending at the side seam.
Step 5; fold the paper using the lines previously drawn as a guide and tape or pin in place. Re-draw the centre back line so that it falls into a nice soft curve. The pattern will look a little odd but trust me on this, it will work! So before you continue, just to be sure..... create another back and using the same front, stitch together another mock up and try it on. You will be surprised at the results!
To my students, I will have a sample of this adjustment in class this week, so stay tuned.....
have a great day!
Hello all, first of all let me congratulate you on a job well done this past week! You really did the draft quickly and well. So for homework you were assigned to create a story board of the base dart with a side dart placement as we did in class only using your own personal measurements. The story board will consist of the following:
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"