Le Grand Chic Italia School of Fashion in Canada
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Maria Calautti
Founder
Master Tailor
Pattern Maker
Alterations Specialist
Instructor
mcalautti@rogers.com

Maria's Blog

Saturday March 29, 2014 pants sewing homework

3/29/2014

 
Hello all for this week your homework is minimal, most of you are at a good point on your jeans they may be finished during the next class.  If you would like to finish them at home the procedure is the same as the dress pants with the addition of the topstitching on the pockets, back yoke, inseam (pressed to the front and topstitched), crotch, it is your choice if you would like one or two rows of topstitching.  The back pockets will be placed in class so bring them cut and I will show you how to transfer the markings and stitch the design, then the pockets can be placed in class and stitched. 

If there is time you may start your original pants exam in class. 

NO CLASS NEXT WEEK DUE TO THE FASHION SHOW. 

See you on April 12 for the final class. 

Friday March 18, 2014 pants drafting class

3/29/2014

 
I wanted to say thank you to the wonderful, talented students who attended the pants drafting class for making this endeavour so worthwhile.  I am very pleased with the level of progress in this class and you should be very proud of your accomplishments, no easy feat to understand and fit pants. 

I will have the exams marked and the grades on Blackboard.  I plan to return them to students on the first night of the tops drafting class. 

Have a great time off and keep up the good work!

Thursday March 27, 2014 homework

3/29/2014

 
Hello ladies you have no homework for this week we will be sewing the raglan sleeve top in class on Thursday.  There is one more class to go and it was an open class so if you have to finish the fashion show garment and want to do it in class that will be fine you may finish the raglan sleeve top next week, the make up class for the snow day earlier this month.

I am so very happy with the progress of this class, great job!  Please be sure to have a description of your garments for me, we will be having a dress rehearsal on Saturday at the banquet hall prior to the show, the exact time will be discussed in class on Thursday.  The ticket sales will be only until April 2, 2104 so if family and friends would like to attend be sure you let them know.

Have a great week!



Friday pants class

3/25/2014

 
Hello ladies can the ladies who are in the sewing class please bring their completed dress pants to the drafting class to see how the legs fit so we can create the jeans pattern.

thanks  

Saturday March 22, 2014 sewing class homework

3/22/2014

 
Great job ladies!  The pants created in this class fit impeccably!  I am very impressed with the level of expertise by these students, second to none!  Congratulations!

Please finish the pants, most of you have minimal work to do so not a big job to complete the task. 

Next week we will be starting on jeans so you will need the following:

  • denim of your choice (2 to 2.5 metres)
  • topstitching thread in a contrasting colour
  • metal zipper for pants front
  • jean button
  • interfacing
  • some pocket lining in lighter weight fabric such as drapery lining that has been pre-shrunk by washing and drying it; the pockets will be cut in one piece with a fabric insert to cut down on the bulk
  • twill tape for pockets
  • a design for the back pocket or some type of embellishment for the yoke if you don't want to have back pockets
  • size 16 needles
  • tracing wheel and paper
  • hammer
  • patience and lots of it! 
The procedure is the same as the dress pants with the addition of the topstitching and back pockets.  Who knew you could sew your own jeans that actually fit without gaping at the centre back!  Also have a design for you back pocket you have practiced it on some fabric at home.  *Tip* keep the lines straight for easier sewing.  Copy the size and shape of the back pocket from a pair of jeans you already own. 

ciao have a great week!

Friday March 21, 2014 homework pants class

3/22/2014

 
Hello ladies!  Job well done on the storyboards, they will come in handy for future reference when you need to install both pockets and zippers.

This week you homework is to do a couple of drafts using different measurements (other than your own), do a front and back, write the scales and uses without the aid of your book or notes.  There will be some questions on the exam, we did a review last night so you are all good to go.

After the exam we will be doing some more drafting to create a jeans pattern to include a back yoke, back pockets and a more tapered leg.  This pattern will be used on Saturday for the jeans class. 

Have a great week, spring is coming.......

Thursday March 20, 2014 homework

3/22/2014

 
Hello ladies!  The tops are looking very nice! 

You were shown how to install the cuffs and collar, how to stitch the hidden placket, you already know how to install the sleeves etc so you are good to finish the blouse at home.  The hemline is to be a small rolled edge only with the hidden placket it is the only way to finish the blouse properly with the least amount of bulk at the centre front. 

Next week we are going to be working on the raglan sleeve top using a stretch/knit fabric shown on pages 27 or 35.  If you are not comfortable with the bare shoulders you can do a contrasting fabric or other embellishment to mimic the cut shown on these pages.  I have set aside two classes for this top, one for drafting and one for sewing, so next week we can draft the top in class so minimal homework to allow time for the fashion show garment to be finished.  Please don't do anything for the raglan sleeve top at home. 

For next week please bring in a written description of the garments you are wearing for the fashion show along with a brief bio of yourself so I can put into the fashion show program.  You can also email it to me.

Have a great week, spring is around the corner, really it is.......




PS Friday's class

3/17/2014

 
Hello please don't forget to bring the 5 zippers as well

Friday March 14, 2014 pants class homework

3/15/2014

 
Job well done on the pocket storyboard ladies!  If you can do another one (or two) step 4 using different fabrics just to get a better understanding of the pocket installation it would be extremely beneficial to you and help to expedite the work next Saturday. 

Your homework is to cut out the following for the zipper storyboard:

  • 6 fronts (giving 12 pieces)
  • 3 flys
  • 3 fusible interfacing the same shape as the fly
  • 2 more fusible interfacing cut in a rectangle the same size as the fly, we will shape it in class
The plan is to complete the storyboard in the first hour of class.  Please come to A217.

The next phase of the drafting will commence following the storyboard to include a capri style pants as well as tracing all the necessary pieces for use on Saturday's class, or for your next pair of dress pants. 

If you are still working of perfecting the fit of your pattern please continue with mock ups, I have discussed individually with students their adjustments so put them into practice.  If you are happy with the fit, CONGRATULATIONS you may now start to create different style pants.  In the book I had "Perfect fit" the author stated that she can do anywhere from 4 to 10 mock ups to fine tune the fit, so take heart there is a light at the end of the pants tunnel :). 

Thank you for the pictures they may help! 



Thursday March 13, 2014 homework La Modellista

3/15/2014

 
Hello ladies your homework this week is to sew the back and front together complete with the hidden placket already done, most of you did this in class already, create the sleeves with cuffs and set them in the blouse.  On Thursday we will be installing the collar but before we do that the buttonholes need to be done, once the placket is closed there is no way of finishing the top buttonhole.  The collar is to be interfaced, if you use a lightweight interfacing you can interface both sides of the collar.  If you are planning on embellishing the blouse please bring your embellishment into class.  My hope is that this blouse will be completely finished by the end of next class :) I'm optimistic we will achieve this goal! 

Have a great week!

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  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple