Very excited to be starting this final segment for the senior class! I can't wait until they receive their diplomas, can't think of anyone more deserving than these ladies. They have been working very hard for the past 5+ years and in my opinion are among the most qualified tailors in the country to do anything from simple garments to evening wear to men's wear!
Students are providing models for this segment so the lucky gentlemen will be not only measured and fit by some very lovely ladies but will get a brand new custom suit! How lucky are they?
Just ask my husband he is getting a brand new suit as well so I can show the students the only stipulation is that he model the suit for the class :) talk about a lucky guy!
Keep you posted on the class progress!
Looking forward to the men's wear class next week! Homework, yes homework already even before the class starts!
So I ask you who else would give students homework BEFORE the class even starts?????? The answer is only ME!
My senior class is going to be doing men's wear so a man's suit is on deck complete with all the tailoring elements in a traditional jacket and pants. A tall order for these ladies! I have no doubts that they will not only complete the task but excel at it.
So I sent out an email with the homework, it reads:
"Hello ladies I have been working on my husband’s suit very hard in order to better explain how to complete a man’s suit to the class. The suit has many components that’s why I had decided to have you work in pairs/groups on each suit. You will all get a chance to work on every aspect of the drafting, construction etc so no worries about not learning there is plenty of work to go around
IN the meantime I would ask you to dig out your notes from the blazer and read them as well as practice some pad-stitching using some scraps following the notes and then bring the samples to class so I can take a look at them please (I said please!). You can also practice some overcast stitches on some fabric that really frays.
If you have some spare time between 2 and 4 am and can’t sleep you can try a practice draft of the boyfriend jacket in book 2 just to refresh your memory...... There will not be a lot of time for reviewing as the suit is labour intensive especially after the masters class I took in Toronto on tailoring, a lot of new material and fine tuning going to be covered. I would like to have most of the work done in class to see and help everyone if possible.
So get ready to work, work, work! You know you love me really you do!!!!!"
Should this group love or hate me???? I bet once they receive their diploma they will thank me for putting them through their paces :)
Every once in a while I feel the need to challenge myself and do something out of the ordinary, today was one of those days, I took a masters class from a very good friend and very talented tailor who has been a master tailor for about 50 years!
You are probably wondering why I needed to take a masters class on tailoring? This is men's wear and it's very finicky if you think ladies wear is difficult well you ain't seen nothing yet! No matter how much knowledge one has there is always room for improvement and there is always something new to learn. Today was no exception I learned A LOT! My friend actually takes apart the zipper, installs it separately on both sides of the pants then puts it together before finishing the inseam and crotch! It's hilarious to see it in the works the side seams, pockets, waistband, zipper are completely finished! The pants look like a skirt with a crotch point!
Now I will take my new found knowledge (except for the taken apart zipper!) and apply it to a suit for my husband, the lucky devil, this will be his Valentine's/birthday gift from me!
So senior class get ready for a steep learning curve and a lot of work! The models are going to LOVE their new threads when finished! I am very excited to see the outcome.
I can finally show some pix of the wedding! The outfits turned out beautifully if I do say so myself!
I am very pleased with the outcome of these garments, the fit, the finish, the overall design were very complimentary to the wearers. Please forgive the quality of the pix, I'm a better tailor than photographer :)
For more pix check out the pictures page, there is the fashion show we did in November finally I could show those pix!
Article for "the fit" online magazine that I contributed earlier this year re: men who don't follow fashion trends
Here is the link to that article it was interesting that the other contributors all agreed that the fit is most important aspect of any wardrobe whether or not the wearer follows trends. In fact I think that the trends really don't factor into the design, fit and function of a garment. A well fitting garment makes the wearer feel great and look even better, classic cuts using quality fabrics are usually the best bet.
I have some great advice for men and women who follow the beat of their own drum, kudos to them for having courage to stand out with class and distinction.
Article that appeared on "My Dapper Self" blog written in response to what is the difference between bespoke and made to measure, read the article, I'm sure you will enjoy it.
Here is a link http://mydapperself.com/what-is-the-difference-between-bespoke-and-made-to-measure-suits/
If you would like to read the discussion.
Here is the blogger's response:
I am absolutely humbled by your comment. You’ve given me the warm fuzzies… for real.
What you are doing is an amazing thing – in this day and age anyone who takes time and effort to teach the younger generations about what real quality clothing is about deserves all my praise. As you so eloquently mentioned, the differences between bespoke, mtm and off-the-rack are immense and yet most people don’t even know these terms make any difference in what a piece of clothing looks like on them.
And I don’t blame them. I blame the fashion/style industry for making it almost a non-issue what fit and quality really is. The fact that you have all these young women doing this and then expanding to menswear means there is a light at the end of the tunnel (and from the men’s end of the spectrum, it seems the interest in quality formal clothing is increasing as well… hope is never lost).
Please keep up the terrific work, Maria. What you’re doing is invaluable. Your comment and everything you are doing has got me inspired like I haven’t felt in a long, long time.
Feel free to use the link however you’d like. I am honored.
Hello all here is an update on the job I got making sleeve adjustments in a Toronto manufacturing company.
I had adjusted the sleeves on a particular style of ladies equestrian jacket in the fall, my task was to make the sleeve longer and more tapered. This is a two piece sleeve so no walk in the park..... The first task is to shrink the armhole then use those dimensions to draft a new sleeve according to the manufacturers instructions. It all worked out very well, I was at the factory for a couple of hours, worked on the pattern pieces and made a mock up for the owner to see. His response was very positive but he said it's not up him, it's up to the buyers to see if they would like the changes or not.
Since then he has taken the samples made to show his buyers around the globe, by doing so he was very surprised! In his words "This almost never happens, in fact I don't think it every happens" I'm wondering what is he about to say, is this a good thing or a bad thing........
He continued, "The buyers all LOVED the sleeve! Usually they want something changed but not this time, everything was perfect. They loved the length, width, hang of the sleeve; all of them did, there was not one change requested!"
So on Thursday I was at the factory from 8:30 in the morning to 7:00 in the evening completing the rest of the sizes.
I could not have been happier! This just validated all that I have been doing over the past 8 years in promoting the program and teaching the pattern drafting method. It is truly a precise method with exceptional results.
Thank you Stuart for taking a chance on me metric and all! :)
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"