Le Grand Chic Italia School of Fashion in Canada
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  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple
Maria Calautti
Founder
Master Tailor
Pattern Maker
Alterations Specialist
Instructor
mcalautti@rogers.com

Maria's Blog

March 2, 2011 second last class

2/24/2011

 
Can you believe it, only 2 more classes left!!!  Last night's class was intense to say the least.  We learned how to install pockets and a front fly zipper.  I was rather vague as to the homework assignment, my brain was tired and needed some time to process everything.  I now have a clear vision of what I would like done.

The pockets were pretty straight forward and everyone seemed to have a good grasp on how they are to be installed, the zipper on the other hand is a little more involved.  For this reason I would like you all to do a practice zipper on some muslin, only cut the front and you can keep the legs short, I am only interested in the zipper installation.  Try installing it using the booklet and sheet received in class, write down any questions that arise in the process or anything that is not clear to you.  We will install the zipper in the "real" pants next week during the first hour of class starting promptly at 6:30.  The rest of the class will be dedicated to finishing the pants, including hemming.

  • Please have the pockets on the front and darts at the back finished and ready to use. 
  • Have all your interfacing in place on the zipper. 
  • waistband is to be cut and interfaced ready for installation
  • bring a button to create a buttonhole
Please bring your sewing machines as well.  The last class will be dedicated to drafting a pair of pants with no side seams and jeans, we may not be able to finish the jeans in class, but you will have the tools to finish them on your own. 

sausage making is done for another year!

2/21/2011

 
Great news!  Our sausage making is done for another year!  Great way to spend family weekend, hard work and good food!  This is a real bonding experience for the whole family and extended family with the added bonus of good food for at least the following year.  We cure some large sausages making the "soppressata" salami and vacum seal and freeze the rest so we can bar-b-que them in the summer.  We control the salt content and the fat content making them very lean and much less salty than what is available commercially.  All told we had over 110 lbs net (off the bone) of meat that we made into sausages!  Starting from "scratch", that is buying the whole cut, New York shoulde and butchering it ourselves, then grinding it, seasoning and stuffing the casings.  It's quite the process but worth all the work in the end!  

So now it's back to the business of sewing and teaching! 
ciao

Class on February 23; update and homework

2/18/2011

 
Hello all, hope you enjoyed last week's class!  The next class will be a practice session on installing pockets and a front fly zipper.  Students will be creating pants they will wear using inexpensive fabric. 

The plan is for students to draft a pants front and back at home making the necessary adjustments learned from the fitting, they will then add pockets on the front draft as shown on page 29 in the book.  The pocket depth and curve are optional, they are strictly based on preference.  The front fly is added as shown on page 31. 

Students will cut and tailor tack the pants back only at home.  Please bring the following:

  • fabric
  • small amount of lining for pockets only 
  • interfacing, fusible (woven or non-woven) 
  • small amount of twill tape (enough to use on the pocket opening)
  • tracing wheel and paper
  • sewing machines
  • sewing kit
Please be sure you are in class by 6:30 for a prompt start to the class.  For the students who missed the test there will be an opportunity for you to make it up at some point during this class. 

update for European Pattern Drafting students

2/11/2011

 

announcement for students

2/8/2011

 
Hello all, just giving you a heads-up on the next class, I will be bringing the gowns to class for your inspection.  For a good look at them please be in early if you can.  I have a very full, time sensitive class planned, so I must start promptly at 7:00.

Please bring in your muslin/broadcloth for your mock-up, sewing kit and the pattern with your personal measurements.  A highlighter or different colour pen/pencil will also be helpful.
thanks

Bustier back

2/5/2011

 
This is your new blog post. Click here and start typing, or drag in elements from the top bar.
Picture
This is the back finished with the hook and eye tape at the centre, non-slip elastic both at the top and bottom.  Again it is attached at the side seams and is placed inside the lining so it will help to keep the dress in place and feel very secure.  Not to mention very comfortable!

Bustier front

2/5/2011

 
Picture
this is the front of the bustier, as you can see it is constructed separately from the lining, better known as the foundation garment.  It is attached at the side seams and the centre front only.   You can see the metal boning that is slid into the casing made from twill tape.  The only pain in the neck are the tips, they are a little finicky to add to the ends of the metal strip to protect the wearer from any sharp edges.

This is your new blog post. Click here and start typing, or drag in elements from the top bar.

Back to reality after the wedding, can't believe it's been a week already!

2/5/2011

 
So I thought I would share with you some of my secrets on why Genevieve's dress fit so well.  It was the built in bustier that was created using bra making supplies and metal boning, yes you read correctly METAL boning!  One would think that it would be uncomfortable and stiff, quite the contrary, it looks like a metal coil and retains it's shape, at the same time it allows the wearer to move freely.  Who would've thunk?!  The front was made from a non stretch fabric and the back was the elastic used by bra manufacturers.  I must give a shout out to Bra Makers Supplies from Hamilton Ontario, they were very helpful and professional, especially when the wrong underwire was sent.  I did make the cups with the underwire for better support and lift, not that she needed it......  Genevieve's comment was "the dress was so comfortable, I could almost wear it to do housework!"  
I found the same with my dress, it was very comfortable.  Imagine wearing a strapless dress from 12:30 in the afternoon until 3:00 am the next morning without wanting to rip it off at any given time!  Take a look at the pictures to see the construction of the bustier.  For any pointers please feel free to email  

Snow day!

2/2/2011

 
Wednesday February 2, 2011 is a snow day, Georgian College is closed, pretty much along with the rest of the province.  To my students, please think about this for next week;  we could add a class onto the end of the module if that is OK with everyone, to make up the missed class tonight.  Otherwise we will have to make alternate arrangements for  a make-up class.  So next week we will proceed as planned for class 3.
thanks, and hopefully the groundhogs are all correct and we will have an early spring!  :)

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    Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"

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705-487-2328

Email

mcalautti@rogers.com
  • Home
    • Contact us
  • Maria's Blog
    • Pictures
  • Tool kits and registration
  • Program Description
    • Skype classes program outline
    • Pattern Making Services
    • Helpful hints and videos
  • Cynch It pants
    • Special events
  • Cooking from "scratch" made simple