Bet you thought I had forgotten to write about Andrew's suit right?! Well I haven't forgotten I have been very busy with new students plus I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to fit. Those you you who have taken my classes or have had work done by me can understand where I'm coming from, especially the students who have been graded by me!
So there was something that was bothering me at the side back slits, the kept opening no matter what I did to fix it nothing seemed to work. As you know everyone's body is different and what works on one person may not necessarily work on another so I learned to trust my instincts when it comes to fitting the body, just because something has never been done a certain way doesn't mean that it can't be done at all. From what I could see the seam coming from the armhole comes down more or less straight, there is a small fish eye dart but that's it so as a seam it works fine but the minute that seam is opened well the slits open. I added more plumb lines on both the back and side back but still would open and just hang there so my solution for this was to pin a horizontal dart ACROSS the waist from the centre back to the side front seam with the largest point being right at the sides under the arm. What? you may be saying! Well trust me it worked like a charm! By making this adjustment it forces the slit to stay closed because the straight line is now a gentle curved line much like a sway-back adjustment instead of the widest part being it the centre it's now at the side! I promise to post pix soon.
I can tell you that even Andrew was impressed with the fit and how good the mock up looked! Happy days!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"