Well it seems Andrew is my new male "consigliere" in the way of men's garments. He is the only male I know who actually understands or even cares about what I'm talking about LOL!
We had a great discussion on men's back pants pockets how they look and how they could/should look with no lumps or bumps or a visible tab for the button. I came up with a plan and made a special design for the back pockets that I will share with everyone at a later date. Suffice it to say I got Andrew's vote of confidence for my design!
After we solved the world's pocket problem we got to work on the task at hand being the sleeve draft. Andrew completed his homework with ease so we re-drew the armhole to match the armhole circumference and proceeded to take the necessary measurements for the sleeves. He learned the relationship the armhole has to the sleeve and all about adding ease to the sleeve cap, I have a very good visual aid for this task, a goof up of a few years back that turned out the have a lovely design feature showing exactly how much extra fabric is added when adding ease to the sleeve and how necessary it is to have the added ease for the fit and feel of the sleeve.
Homework is to draft sleeves on page 52 with pleats and both sleeves with gathers on page 50 and 51, also draft a new set-in sleeve using different measurements meaning a new front and back bodice will have to be drafted. The other part of the homework is to sew a mock up of the coat dress and cut the sleeves ready for installation next class. The front facing will have to be completed with necessary markings plus the 3mm increase at the collar to allow for the turn of the cloth.
Next week is March break so no class I will be sipping a pina colada by the pool or at the beach :)
Have a good two weeks!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"