Very proud of Andrew, he completed all his homework so we were able to fit the jacket this morning and it was an almost perfect fit! He is so thin that it just needed taking in at the seams, no big deal we encounter this all the time in tailoring..... But once the garment fits it fits well!
So after the fitting we "read" the mock up to see what it was telling us, we then took our findings to the master pattern and made the necessary changes such as: the seams all needed to be tapered from the underarm to the waist besides the centre back seam which needs to be taken in all the way to the hem. As a result of taking in the seams the armhole needed to be enlarged slightly, not a big deal at this stage.... the sleeves were done correctly with only some minor fine tuning that I showed Andrew in class.
My favourite part of a class is when I show a technique to students and once finished they actually say "Is that it?" this tells me they have understood the technique perfectly which makes me very happy! This morning I showed Andrew how to create the lining pieces for the back vents on men's wear, the seams are not one on top of the other, they are staggered to make the finish more polished and reduce bulk. On the master pattern it can get quite confusing for a less experienced tailor to have all those lines but by placing a piece of tracing paper on top of the master pattern and drawing the lining pieces on that separate piece it makes it much easier to understand the mechanics behind the draft. Kudos to Andrew for saying "Is that it?" when he was finished!
Homework is to trace all remaining pattern pieces, cut out the lining pieces, canvas and front stay pieces, jacket pieces, collar and upper collar will be cut in class next week. I want to see all the markings/reference points on the pattern pieces both paper and fabric. Sew the lining pieces together with the front facing as well. Practice the hand stitching as shown in class on the sample for the notched collar and bring it in for assessment next week.
Have a good one!!!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"