On Sunday we covered a lot of ground in one hour, we went over the armhole adjustment to get the measurements for the sleeve draft; went over the grading for the multi-size patterns, central vs lateral grading – central grading is increased/decreased by .5 cm on each side meaning if there are any darts they don’t move, whereas the lateral grading is increased/decreased by 1 cm on the side seam only, meaning the dart must also move by the same amount.
We also discussed a dress she is making with a French dart and front slit with no seam at the front in velvet. A French dart is curved and has the fullness from the base and fish eye darts transferred to it so it will shape with minimal seams. The dart will have to be cut away to decrease any bulk and for it to sit properly on the body. I have used it many times and it works beautifully!
Amanda said she is fascinated by bespoke tailoring and now wants to continue with her studies to get to the point of receiving her diploma from Italy for tailor!
I have worked out a plan for her to complete book 1 with minimal instruction, she is more than capable to execute the task as she has proven.
Homework to be completed before the next class is to draft the patterns on pages 60 – 67 and then book a class. Do a mock up of the velvet dress with the French dart, complete a sleeve for mom’s dress and stitch it on the mock up to see how well the sleeve fits on the newly adjusted armhole.
Keep up the good work!