So proud of this young woman! She works so hard at her craft to perfect the work! For her mom she did 2 mock ups for pants, didn't like the first one so she made another to show me which the first one would have been fine anyway. Amanda understands my sometimes cryptic descriptions LOL! That is my biggest challenge to put my thoughts into coherent sentences.
In class we went over in detail the pants adjustments according to Rocco Aloi, an Italian tailor who wrote a book on the subject. Basically it's all about how the fabric hangs on the body. The drag and pull lines will tell the tale, if the lines pull up, add fabric to the waist to re-align it and let the area drop down, if there is pulling at the crotch towards the front from the back then there is not enough room for the body inside the crotch so add to the back inseam; this is called the "outlet' and there for this express purpose to pull the back back giving a larger negative space. Sometimes there needs to be some scooping going on at the back curve and some straightening at the front curve, and I can go on and on. Pants must be judged on a case by case basis there are no hard and fast rules on what to do because what works on one person may not necessarily work on another.... sometimes leading a tailor to drink!!
Job well done young lady! I even had Amanda assign her own homework this time!
Homework is to perfect the fit on both pants as we discussed in class. This is one area that a student has to find their own way of understanding how to read the mock ups and make the necessary adjustments. The other part is to make a pair of pants with pockets, the initial draft was very well done so continue with that using personal measurements. Next class is when you are ready.
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"