First of all I'm sorry for the delay in posting this homework, I haven't stopped since Thursday's class with the long weekend and all....
Anyway Amanda did a lot of work on pants between drafting some new drafts and making a mock up, we even facetimed for the fitting, get this they were downtown and went into a public washroom to try on the pants!!! It was actually quite funny having to wait for the hand dryers to turn off LOL!!! Life is always interesting! Well the pants were a bit tight on the model, pants measurements should be taken a bit loose or round up the half hip measurement to a higher number if the measurements fall between the markings. This is quite normal for the very first mock up to be either tight or loose, on occasion the pants fit perfectly, in that case pour yourself a drink and celebrate!
I suggested Amanda let the pants out 1 cm at the outseam and 1 cm at the inseam which she did and the pants fit better, this time the waist was a bit large which again is an easy fix, the waist should not have been touched in this case... The other thing I noticed in the pictures were the "smile" lines at the front crotch, it was very fortuitous that the fabric had some colourful stripes making it easier to explain the adjustment! I told Amanda to let out the centre front 1 cm on each side at the waist, even though it was too large this is the procedure to fix those not so funny "smile" lines, by letting out the waist you are allowing the fabric to rise up and move towards the side seam, shifting the fabric to remove the lines. It really works! Any excess can be removed at the side seam or a small 9cm dart at the pressing line will also address the problem. We don't usually add darts to the pants front unless they are necessary and this may be one of the times it's necessary.
Amanda's drafts are so neat and precise it's very easy to understand and see what she has done from the pictures she sends me. Our classes are on Skype and the work is checked by using pictures and commenting, it seems to be working very well for us. But then again Amanda is a model student :)
Homework is to draft and sew a pair of pants for a larger size, create a mock up, fit the body and explain to me how the issues would be adjusted. It would help to have the model wearing the pants… The other part of the homework is to make the adjustments we talked about in class on the completed mock ups by letting out the centre front, I would like you to remove the excess fabric at the side seam on one side and on the other side add a dart to account for the excess to see which side looks better on the model. Great learning!
Maria Calautti, "Jack of all trades"